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Directors on the rise at Milan Fashion Week – WWD

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As fashion brands search for new formats to showcase their fall 2021 collections, rising star filmmakers are leaving their mark at Milan Fashion Week. Here are the directors who have created short films for Emporio Armani, MSGM and GCDS.

Leandro Manuel Emede

Leandro Manuel Emede.

Leandro Manuel Emede
Courtesy of Leandro Manuel Emede

“I am drawn to anything that bothers me and makes me think. And that’s what I always try to achieve in my work: I like that those who see one of my images don’t think “how pretty”. I’m not interested in people who love my work aesthetically, but rather that it shifts something in them.

Let Argentinian photographer and director Leandro Manuel Emede pragmatically summarize his vision. One of the most promising talents on the Italian scene and co-founder of the Milan-based Sugarkane Studio with stylist Nicolò Cerioni, Emede said he was inspired by the work of directors Alejandro González Iñárritu, Federico Fellini and Steven Spielberg, as well as by the master photographers Richard Avedon, Guy Bourdin and Constantine Manos. Yet his words and his approach to the visual arts reveal that Oliviero Toscani is the one who has most influenced his personal and professional career.

“I’ve always wanted to do this job. As a child, I played with my father’s camera and I always wanted it to become my work tool, ”he recalls. “Then one day I also got passionate about photography and communication by looking at Oliviero Toscani’s posters for Benetton in the streets of Buenos Aires, Argentina. And that’s how growing up, I thought I wanted to work with him to learn from the greatest of all time.

Emede’s wish finally came true, as he became Toscani’s assistant from 2006 to 2010, which resulted in the most formative experience of his career, with his studies at USC Cinematic Arts in Los Angeles.

With the launch of his agency Sugarkane Studio, Emede began collaborating with Italian celebrities and pop stars, including Jovanotti, Laura Pausini and Franco Battiato, on music videos and documentaries. The creativity and visibility of such content opened the doors to the fashion industry for the director, as he expanded his work to carry out campaigns for Emporio Armani, OVS, Premiata and Morellato, among others.

In particular, this season he has returned to his place behind the camera on the set of Emporio Armani, directing the brand’s video which will be released during Milan Fashion Week. This will be in addition to the ‘Building Dialogues’ digital presentation unveiled in September, which resulted in one of the most engaging projects on social media, both because of its enigmatic visual concept and the star-studded cast, which included Netflix talents like Omar Ayuso of “Elite”; Najwa Nimri from “La Casa de Papel”; Miguel Angel Silvestre from “Sense8”; Rocco Fasano from “Skam Italia” and Alice Pagani from “Baby”.

An Emporio Armani still

An image from the Emporio Armani video “Building Dialogues”.
Courtesy of Leandro Manuel Emede

Asked about the differences in approach to music and fashion projects, Emede said that, in the former, “transport and rigor must coexist. On the one hand, you must know how to create strong images that accompany the music, on the other hand, you must always keep in mind that you are the head of a great machine of production and creation.

“In fashion, this contrast is less valid: even when creating content that should immediately spark interest, you still have to focus a lot on the product,” Emede added.

Trendy digital presentations are bound to become more and more relevant, according to the director. “Catwalks made fashion history, but even before COVID-19, they were obsolete. Today, with a similar budget, you can create a very high quality video that tells the vision of a creator and a brand without the limits of a traditional show, ”he concluded. – Sandra Salibian

Albert Moya

Albert Moya.

Albert Moya
Courtesy of Albert Moya.

Barcelona-based filmmaker and director Albert Moya found himself working with fashion companies almost by accident.

After graduating from the New York Film Academy in 2013, his latest project, titled “American Autumn,” landed on Nowness, the digital video platform, which began entrusting him with dfo architecture and design films. , before none other than Dries Van. Noten came knocking on the door.

As the first fashion film he ever made, “Baton” for Van Noten is a film noir-inspired film filled with discreet black and white frames in an opulent Parisian theater, which evokes a sense of dread and dread. melancholy.

“I’m driven by emotions over anything else, I love making the audience feel something, no matter what the emotion, and that’s the one thing I’m most committed to,” Moya said. in a telephone interview from Paris, where he is based.

To elicit strong feelings, the director said he often takes a provocative approach, juxtaposing elements out of context, unexpected locations, offbeat lighting and heartbreaking twists. “I like to work on elements that have their own sense of provocation, so when you put all the different elements together there’s always a kind of dialogue… things that you’ve seen or known before become something completely. new, ”he suggested.

After this first short film by Dries Van Noten, the fashion industry took notice and he trained his camera for several renowned names including Bulgari, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Jacquemus and Rimowa. He is due to debut his latest fashion-related project during Milan Fashion Week, as Italian streetwear label GCDS tapped him for their film unveiling the fall 2021 collection.

A frame of the

An image from the film “Baton” by Albert Moya made for Dries Van Noten.
Courtesy of Albert Moya.

With 10 different moods lit by the main colors of the lineup and a surreal take on the narrative, which is also a key part of GCDS’s design lexicon, the fashion show must have a bittersweet flavor. Without giving too much detail, Moya noted that the creative project was a joint effort with brand co-founder and creative director Giuliano Calza. It was shot for three days in a London studio involving a team of 100 people and 40 talents.

Despite his distinctive aesthetic, rooted in experimental cinema, Moya confessed that inspirations come from everything he experiences in his daily life. “I just like being aware of my daily life, catching everything I see on the subway, in my family, in the movies I watch, in the rooms I see, in the music I listen to, in my homes. friends. Everything can become a reference for a project or an idea that you develop in a film. It’s really about being awake and aware, ”he told himself.

Now busy working on his first feature film, a project he will begin filming in early 2022, Moya admitted to seeing two types of fashion films take the lead, some more editorial and product-focused, others similar. to music videos and with a story attached. for them.

Tending to favor the latter, he sees them stealing the show. “I think people need stories to watch videos these days. There is so much video content that when you come up with something different, that’s when it really becomes more engaging, ”he noted. – Martino Carrera

Francesco Coppola

Francesco Coppola on the set

Francesco Coppola on the set.
Courtesy of Giuseppe Bruno

Francesco Coppola is still young but he has already lived many professional lives.

Born in Naples, he moved to Rome 10 years ago to fulfill his dream of becoming an actor. However, after graduating from drama school, he realized that something was missing in order to be successful in this field. “To be an actor you have to have a very clear structure, because in front of the camera you are alone with yourself, you have no instrument, nothing,” said Coppola. “I decided to be very honest with myself admitting that I lacked this structure, so I gave up on that idea.”

At 25, Coppola started over and found a job as a producer of music videos and commercials. “Work in production, I had my first experience in the fashion industry, ”he says. “In 2017, we shot Saint Laurent’s Spring 2018 spot with Kate Moss. It has been amazing! She’s so awesome.

But after a few years Coppola realized that he really lacked some creativity in his professional life, and at 27 he decided to step out of his comfort zone and get closer to the world of cinema. .

“I was fortunate enough to start working with the best of the best,” he said, referring to the fact that he got a post of deputy director from Oscar winner Paolo Sorrentino, who was touring the series “The Young Pope” with Jude Droit.

In recent years, while continuing to work as an assistant director, Coppola has started directing some projects, including music videos for Italian artists such as Calcutta, Beba and his girlfriend, Margherita Vicario.

Margherita Vicario's music video

The music video for “Giubbottino” by Margherita Vicario directed by Francesco Coppola.
Courtesy of Margherita Vicario

For the artist, who is on the Universal List in Italy, Coppola directed the music video for “Giubbottino”, a song about empowering women. On this occasion, the director contacted MSGM, who provided stylist Simone Furlan with the outfits for the male show filmed in the video.

“This is how Massimo Giorgetti found me,” said Coppola, who will make his Milan Fashion Week debut with a video for MSGM. “I am very fascinated by fashion. What I find very intriguing is that fashion really reflects society, changing and evolving with it.

Additionally, Coppola said he finds it stimulating that fashion, unlike other arts, is deeply tied to the market. “It’s a bigger responsibility, because by working for a fashion brand you are not only interpreting a designer’s vision, but you are also developing something that has an impact on a company’s activity. “

However, fashion still holds a mystery for the young director. “What I haven’t figured out yet is why everything has to be done at the last minute in this industry, do in two or three days what you do in the film industry in weeks,” he said. -he declares. – Alessandra Turra

Learn more about WWD:

New to the Milan crew: 6 emerging brands to watch

Publication of the official calendar of Milan Fashion Week



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