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Ts Spring Mens Fashion Issue: their way

 


We love the rebels or, at least, we say it. After all, much of American cinema can be seen as a long celebration of disobedience, of the pleasure of challenging the status quo.

But while we may fetishize iconoclasm in our entertainment, our support is less complete in real life. The appearance of someone who not only seems to fear breaking with tradition, but in fact shamelessly does so, is often greeted with suspicion. Sometimes this circumspection is justified, the border between iconoclasm and narcissism is easily tarnished, but often our reaction is more complicated: we may find ourselves unexpectedly invested in maintaining the institutions of power, and while seeing someone willing to set fire to these institutions can inspire admiration, it can also engender envy (why can't I I do that?), self-recrimination (why does not have I'm doing this?) And fear (can it really do that?). The rebel, initially welcomed, becomes rather a subject of suspicion, especially when it becomes clear that, no, we do not necessarily have to follow the path of success that we said we have to.

In this issue, we introduce three people from the Korean conceptual artist Haegue Yang, American designer Kerby Jean-Raymond and Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto who all, in their own way, rejected not only traditional routes but also the idea that their achievements should be validated by a small group people to be considered legitimate. Sometimes their challenge looked like something more like passivity: shortly after graduating from Tokyo University in 1994, for example, Fujimoto decided that he would do nothing. For six years, he sleeps until noon, goes for long walks and considers the urban environment. It may not be the flashiest form of resistance, but in a culture that deeply values ​​diligence, it was (and remains) an outrageously transgressive movement, a withdrawal of expectations from society while making it also part. This dedication to following his own North Star, visible only to him, has resulted in a series of structures which, as Nikil Saval writes, amaze with their idiosyncrasy and strangeness; they are pure expressions of form, inimitable iterations on its particular vernacular form.

Then there is Jean-Raymond, whose label of seven years, Pyer Moss is, as M.H. Miller writes, a singularly personal and singular account of his own life as a black designer in America. Jean-Raymond's clothes are beautiful, but they are also deeply emotional; the creator is inextricable from the pieces he realizes and all of them are deeply permeated in a visible way and not with Jean-Raymond's personal story: his experiences as a Haitian-American, in as a black man, as an artist. His rise and reluctance to follow prescribed pathways to success in the industry go hand in hand. Its success is subversive, and vice versa.

But perhaps the thing we fear most about the rebels is their loneliness, their apparent lack of need for approval, of course, as well as for people in general. Being alone does not necessarily mean that you are alone, but the possibility is greater. Haegue Yang was perhaps born in Korea and can now live in Seoul and Berlin, but part of her discipline belongs to nothing and refuses to be part of anything. She is single by design and has freed herself from the burden of kindness (a syndrome that particularly affects women artists). She is nomadic, constantly commuting between countries, but she is also an ascetic: her work is bristling with things, everyday objects that we all accumulate during a rooted existence, but her own life is rid of its possessions. Comfort, she believes, is the enemy of artistic creation, not to mention intellectualism, and she has dedicated her life to living without it.

It is not a life that I could live myself, as much as I admire his steel and his will. A book publisher I know once told me that every artist's creed should be compromised when necessary, but never give in. His good advice (be careful though: it is not the same for a politician or an elected official). What if we never had to do either? A rebel shows us what he can do, and it's something we can all find hope in: never compromise, never give in. The road is long. But it will always be yours.

Read more from Ts Mars 8 Mens Fashion issue.

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