Girls’ hot summer is fast approaching, thanks to the vaccinations and the promise that we will soon be enjoying barbecues again. If you are feeling stressed about what to wear, join the club! Is loose clothing here to stay? Who are the creators to watch? How are designers and advocates pushing the industry to be more responsible, sustainable and inclusive? Join us to experience the uncertain world of post-pandemic fashion today.
Ready for vaccines. Everything Dolly Parton touches turns to gold, including what she’s wearing. She inspired a whole new fashion trend clothes ready for vaccines. Amy Schumer was the latest to jump on the trend, wearing her fanciest dress with a arm cutout to get the jab. The off-the-shoulder top is now the top of the vaccine, bringing ’80s fashion through to 2021. Outfits with lots of arm / shoulder real estate are all the rage, with creative ensembles catching fire. TIC Tac.
Baggy is back. The myth that style and comfort can’t coexist was debunked during housework: Fashion has to change when the highlight of your day ventures into your living room. The current stage: puffy. Tracksuits, breezy maxi and pajamas are just a few of the styles that have flourished over the past year. Japanese brand Suicoke leads the sandal trend with a orthopedic style thick silhouette. Likewise, multi-brand Chinese streetwear retailer DOE Shanghais’ lookbooks use oversized layers and concepts, including its February collaboration with MAGIC STICK and WILD THINGS. Baggy is back and he might be here to stay.
Smuggling. Bootleg fashion, with its DIY customizations of nostalgic brands, first of all has become a trend in streetwear in 2016. From bands forgotten to ’90s TV shows, T-shirts were time machines that sent customers to their favorite pop culture era. Today, this trend dominates the fashion industry, as the designers who broke with this style are now directors of major fashion houses. Chicagos Joe Freshgoods collaborates with the same brands he once imitated, and the premises of all of Michael Chermans’ brands are based on New York Chinatown Markets. Look for nostalgia to continue to be the driving force behind streetwear in the future.
Rise of the Black Designer. The late Karl Lagerfeld set a standard in the fashion world as a designer, photographer and creative director who has had an impact on the industry as a whole and trends indicate that a person of color will step up to fill that point. empty. Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton, Shayne Oliver at Helmut Lang and Kerby Jean-Raymond at Pyer Moss are part of a wave of new black designers shaping the future of the fashion industry. Momentum went into overdrive after the death of George Floyd, a record number of black designers were approached for projects. Expect to see Gucci, Louis Vuitton and other big names continue to do so. Learn more about OZY.
on the radar
Lack of inclusiveness. Guccis admission Taking influences from legendary ’80s Harlem streetwear designer Dapper Dan is just one example of the mainstream long story to appropriate black ingenuity. And while the two sides have since collaborated and made amends, the problem persists. The retail chain Nova mode was charged with appropriation, and Kylie Jenner was repeatedly called for not giving credit to labels owned by blacks (she denies the revendications). However, with people of color in more positions of power, there may be be less imitations and more collaborations.
Telfar. It’s not for you, it’s for everyone, it’s more than Telfars’ slogan. Founded by Liberian American Telfar Clemens, the company is based on accessibility, until their Bag security program a bespoke luxury bag service disrupting the resale market. In competition with Chanel and Gucci, the faux leather tote sells just as quickly at half the price. Telfar does all of this while attracting a diverse consumer base that includes men, people of color, and a queer audience. They are so popular that Guess is criticized for copying their bag design.
Steal from creators. One of fashion’s most notorious content farms is causing waves on TikTok. Danielle Bernstein, Head of WeWoreWhat, has eviscerated on the platform to steal designs, outfits and content from smaller designers, often people of color. She took the stage to defend herself, decrying what she called bullying. Still, many were quick to point out his habit of asking small designers for free samples and refusing to credit or copy them outright for his clothing line. Among the victims: Latina designer Karen perez, which Bernstein copied after asking him for samples.
#U.S. too. Is #MeToo coming to the fashion world? Recent allegations of sexual assault on Alexander Wang exposed the turtle pace to which the industry responded to the #MeToo movement, especially for male role models. The accusations were largely met with silence, which Owen Mooney, the model who accused the first Wang, called deafening. Mooney channeled his outrage through the hashtag #U.S. too, which is used to share stories of sexual abuse by LGBTQ people, as well as in the fashion industry.
forces of change
Ngozi Okaro. While caring for her sick father, Okaro found herself using sewing to de-stress. She was inspired to create Custom Collaborative, a skills incubator for low-income women or women from immigrant communities who want to start fashion businesses. The Manhattan-based collective aims to empower women who are traditionally exploited by the fashion industry and encourage consumers to pay attention to the craftsmanship (and environmental impact) behind their purchases. Learn more about OZY.
Jin Kay, Dylan Cao and Huy Luong. The ’80s are back, but horrible hair isn’t. The creators of the Commission label have decided to pay tribute to their Asian moms and bring their fabulous style to the catwalk. The brand marries western fashion with oriental execution in a way that honors their mother’s sleek look and impeccable fit (although often using cheaper fabric cuts). The brand puts Asian women at heart instead of symbolizing or appropriating their fashion.
Phillip Lim and Ruba Abu-Nimah. Together, the two designers team up to fight anti-Asian violence. They are in the process of designing Stop Asian Hate keychains, the proceeds of which will go to AAPI GoFundMe. The pair are also the brains behind New York. Campaign more difficult than ever. For Lim, who has his own fashion line, and Abu-Nimah, who has been named Tiffanys new creative director last month, their activism is rooted in the belief that even doing something small makes a difference. Lim encourages everyone to “Inspire your environment to fuck”.
Anifa Mvuemba. Born in Nairobi, Kenya, to Congolese parents, Anifa Mvuembas inclusive label, Hanifa, offers a rare space for tall women of color. Its collection of luxury pieces covers sizes 0 to 20, offering palettes and design trends on par with all major fashion lines. Mvuembas industry leadership goes beyond sons: in 2020, she produced the Hanifas show on Instagram Live using 3D animation to make ghosts with curves appear to float on the catwalk for an added spooky effect.
new wave of native fashion
Bethany Yellowtail. Over the past year, Northern Cheyenne Nation creator Bethany Yellowtail has used her business to make more than 100,000 masks with the symbol of the tribes, the morning star, for his community as Indigenous people, die from COVID-19 at twice the rate of white Americans. His company, B. Yellowtail, is a tribute to the textiles and colors with which she grew up on a reserve in southern Montana. She sells her own creations as well as those of other Aboriginal artists.
Jamie Reading. Okuma takes luxury fashion and turns it into something even more amazing. The famous bead artist hails from the Luiseo and Shoshone-Bannock tribes, and her pieces can be found at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Smithsonian. Her last commission is a pair of boots adorned with a hand-beaded image of her childhood pet, a Californian jay named Peep.
Eighth generation. This native-owned lifestyle brand is dedicated to uplifting its community by avoiding stereotypes and providing products that broaden the definition of what it is. means to be indigenous. The brand sells everything from blankets to phone cases. Founder Louie Gong was fed up with companies co-opting Indigenous designs for their benefit, so he decided to beat them at their own game and redirect this consumer spending towards indigenous communities.
Truly sustainable fashion. It’s one of today’s most popular buzzwords, but sustainable fashion started with native designers and the connection to nature. Designer Sho Sho Esquiro insists that the heart of sustainability should be less about fashion and more about respecting the balance between humans and the natural world. People have to remember that they have power by being a consumer, change happens with you and me. It is a principle that applies all over the world, from the manufacture of vegan wool in India to the upcycling of textile scraps in Estonia.
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