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Clothing that lasts should become a fashion trend that is not just a passing fad | Fashion




TThe problem with a lot of fashion writing is that it’s just a shopping list packed with adjectives. Its engine, noisy and agitated, is acquisition. It couldn’t be wrong that the most precious item in your wardrobe wasn’t the trendy dress you poured way too much money into just the other week, but the boxy-cut shirt with a jungly pattern and plate size buttons. your grandmother sewn for your mother in the 1950s.

But maybe that is about to change. I feel the terrain is changing, and not just because of the pandemic, which has made sequins temporarily redundant and belts strictly optional. In Loved clothes last, Orsola de Castros’ new manifesto for mending, the words take care of polyester are written without irony. In Worn stories, a Netflix documentary series, powerful stories are woven from old coats, not new ones. My strong intuition, as someone who loves clothes immoderate and thinks about it a lot more than it should, is that fashion may soon see a correction; that she will soon have no choice but to consider longevity as well as novelty; that in the coming months he will find many new and creative ways to deploy Diana Vreelands edits always useful elegance is the refusal.

Bad taste referee

Jonathan Meades in Marseille.
Jonathan Meades in Marseille. Photography: France Keyser / The Observer

Pedro and Ricky come back, a new collection of essays and reviews from genius writer and filmmaker Jonathan Meades is as big as a cinder block: not exactly one for the tote bag, let alone the evening clutch (if only) . But as it contains multitudes among its subjects are Julian Barnes, Brutalism, Bob Monkhouse, Elizabeth David, Department Stores, Essex, Indian restaurants and guts (food, not garbage speak), pain in l shoulder is almost worth it. Its capacity is so extreme, in fact, that even I briefly wander through its pages.

A few years ago, I went to interview Meades in Marseille, where he lives, in a fabulous style, in Le Corbusiers The Radiant City, and there, I was invited to feast my slowly blinking eyes on his collection of Vallauris night lights, in colored glass and mainly shaped like a fish. In a piece called Desert Island Objects, Meades recalls my inexplicably rude response to this monstrous array of kitsch (I have no recollection of what I said). What are they? I asked. I then declared them hideous.

Naturally, Meades thought this was tediously predictable; I fear now that I was a big disappointment for him at that time. Bad taste, he told me, is perfectly acceptable. It is not a beige insipidity of taste and an unhealthy shyness that is objectionable.

A talisman of hope

Maria Fitzherberts' lover, the Prince of Wales, received a small painting of her eye.
Maria Fitzherberts’ lover, the Prince of Wales, received a small painting of her eye. Photograph: Royal Collection Trust / Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II / PA

After no little hesitation, I spent the small amount of money I managed to save while on lockdown on a keepsake that I hope will forever remind me of those weird and sad months: a lovers eye ring. Such jewelry was all the rage at the end of the 18th century, a craze that started in 1785, when Maria Fitzherbert opened a letter from her admirer, George, the Prince of Wales, and found a small painting of the eye. right of future kings; for the next 50 years, this is how the painfully separated lovers and separated remained close to each other (alas, the Victorians preferred hair to miniatures and the fashion died out).

I bought my ring from a jeweler called Badgers Velvet and besides being very beautiful, it gives me surprisingly good company. As I type, her level gaze reassures me that it surely won’t be long before I can put my arms around those I have missed so much.

Rachel Cooke is an Observer columnist

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