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The Met’s Costume Institute puts American fashion in the spotlight – Sourcing Journal




The stories, struggles and never-before-seen accomplishments behind American fashion will be the focus of the Costume Institute’s next major exhibition, “In America: A Fashion Lexicon.”

The Met Museum in New York has announced plans to host the two-part survey of American fashion to mark the Institute’s 75th anniversary.

Starting September 18, 2021, part one of the Anna Wintour Costume Center will explore a ‘modern American-style vocabulary emphasizing the expressive qualities of dress and deeper associations with issues of fairness, diversity and d ‘inclusion,’ the museum said. The galleries will present a fictional American house built of transparent walls and present examples of fashion from the 20th and 21st centuries that reflect the “customs and behaviors” of the imagined occupants.

“Creations from pioneers of American sportswear will be on display alongside works by a diverse group of contemporary designers to illustrate a shift in direction in American fashion defined by feelings of fear, pleasure, comfort, anxiety. , well-being, loneliness, happiness, belonging and responsibility, among other qualities, ”said the Met.

The second part, titled “In America: A Fashion Anthology,” will open in the period rooms of the museum’s American wing on May 5, 2022. It will feature stories that explore the development of American fashion in relationship with the “complex and layered stories” of these spaces.

Parts one and two will close on September 5, 2022.

In a video to announce the theme of the exhibit, Andrew Bolton, Curator Wendy Yu in charge of the Costume Institute, previewed some of the key pieces of clothing that will be included in the exhibit.

Christopher John Roger’s fall / winter 20-21 pink plaid silk-taffeta dress will be on display in the American Wing Ballroom, reminiscent of the dramatic dresses designed by Charles James in the 1950s.

Behind the Scenes of Christopher John Rogers RTW Fall 2020

Christopher john rogers

A beginner-inspired dress made from reused materials by Conner Ives, a recent Central Saint Martins graduate, will represent the new fashion mindset. A dress from Prabal Gurung’s Spring / Summer 2022 collection reflects the designer’s activism on behalf of American immigrants.

Behind the scenes at Prabal Gurung RTW Spring 2020

Behind the scenes at the Prabal Gurung Spring 2020 show

The “Veil Flag,” a $ 650 black washed denim scarf made by Los Angeles-based designer Sterling Ruby, will be the democratic garment that connects the two sides, Bolton said.

The wrapper, which was made during the Black Lives Matter movement of summer 2020, explores the concept of the flag ‘as a flow signifier and how our relationship to it can change when activated as a veil. “. Ruby made a site-specific video of the veiled flag in front of the bank facade in the US Wing of the Met for the exhibit.

In an interview with Vogue, Bolton said he believes American fashion is “undergoing a renaissance” led by the next generation of talent. Young designers, he said, “are at the forefront of discussions on diversity and inclusion, as well as sustainability and transparency, far more than their European counterparts, perhaps at the forefront. except for English designers.

Rising young stars have been selected as co-chairs of the 2021 Met Gala. Scheduled for September 13, Timothée Chalamet, Billie Eilish, Amanda Gorman and Naomi Osaka will co-chair the scaled-down event alongside honor chair designer Anna Wintour , Tom Ford and Adam Mosseri, the director of Instagram.

The dress code for the event is “American Independence”.

If the mass of pink, tulle and puffed sleeves that swept through women’s fashion in the wake of the Met Gala for the 2019 “Camp: Notes on Fashion” exhibition is an indicator of the event’s level of influence on In the market, American designers are likely to have new trends and inspiration on their hands, which could give business a boost.

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