Everyone comes to Hollywood.
Madonna’s lyrics ring more true than ever in Ryan Murphy’s latest limited series on Netflix. Entitled “Hollywood,” Murphy and co-creator Ian Brennan take a look at post-war Tinsel Town in the 1940s as they follow a group of aspiring actors and filmmakers. But there is a twist, the show examines decades-old power dynamics and what the entertainment landscape would have looked like had it been dismantled. Imagine a female studio manager, an openly gay male star, and the main female being a woman of color.
It’s a clear ode to Hollywood’s golden age, and according to costume designer Sarah Evelyn, glitter and glam were a key marker of the era. But as the show follows those who seek to “succeed,” you will see a clear difference between the haves and have-nots in the wardrobe.
“We looked at glamor with golden tones,” said Evelyn. “It has spread to harvest tones – toffee, pastels, forest green and black and white. It was very rich and warm. For the wealthy, the wealthy, it was enhanced with color blocking. And for people with less money, it was much more textured and we would reuse their cupboards. “
Going back to the 1940s was a serious undertaking, but Evelyn found advice from Lou Eyrich, Murphy’s longtime collaborator and costume designer. (Eyrich helped set the vision with Murphy while preparing with Evelyn and working on the pilot before Evelyn took the helm.) The designer duo had worked together in the past on Murphy’s other shows, “American Horror Story: Cult “and” Hotel “. making it another successful collaboration.
“We had the same complete aesthetic,” said Eyrich, “and we were particular about each button, pocket point, lapel, belt buckle.”
“Over the years, Lou has truly respected a long list of resources, which is amazing in this collaboration,” added Evelyn. The two started working about eight weeks before production, bringing together mood boards and inspirational photo libraries. Old movies, such as “Women of the Year,” with Katharine Hepburn, “Dark Passage” with Humphrey Bogart, “Double Indemnity” and “All About Eve,” have proven to be a strong influence on the wardrobe.
With Laura Harrier as Camille, Samara Weaving as Claire, Dylan McDermott as Ernie, Holland Taylor as Ellen Kincaid, Patti LuPone as Avis, many actors have also committed to collaborate.
Taylor, for example, had a great contribution, according to the designers. The actress looked at old photos of her mother and grandparents for outfit ideas. “She really thinks about it up to the nylons and the shoes,” said Eyrich. “In one of her outfits, we made for her on the basis of a photo of her mother where she was wearing a Georg Jenson silver brooch, we got her a similar one. She put it on and it was moving. She felt it deeply, ”added Evelyn.
For the character of Lupone, it was to show the old Hollywood glamor. Her looks were inspired by Barbara Stanwyck and Joan Crawford. “She can take off a costume,” said Evelyn. “She is ready to take risks and wear traditional underwear. She gives everything she has and doesn’t even have a break. “
Being located in the post-World War II period, certain challenges appeared in terms of shoes. During this period, the shoes were made narrower and smaller. Eyrich said the use of real pairs would collapse due to the hard leather, but she had bought many replicas over the years and would put hard soles on the bottoms to keep them or shoe clips, rhinestones and arcs to change the appearance.
In addition, Eyrich had also just released the next “Ratched” (another Murphy-Netflix series), which takes place in the 1940s, allowing him to store and transport costumes.
Incredible costumes, extravagant dresses, furs, hats and jewelry, the looks prove that there is no doubt that the public is in the golden age. Take a look through the gallery, “and tune in to the series on Netflix, starting Friday, May 1.
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