As the winemaker who first put Chinese vintages on the map, Zhang Jing of Helan Qingxue Winery is a pioneer, but not an anomaly.
From the dusty vineyards of China's hinterland to the chic bars of the metropolis, women are at the forefront of the country's increasingly vibrant wine scene, driving innovation at every stage of the production – and consumption – process.
In 2011, Helan Qingxue sent shockwaves through the industry when it produced the first Chinese wine to win top honors at the industry's most prestigious competition, even sparking unfounded allegations of fraud.
More than a decade later, Zhang is one of many Chinese women recognized internationally for their premium bottles as the nascent industry continues to evolve.
“It's a very heavily female-dominated industry here,” Chinese wine expert Fongyee Walker told AFP.
“I don’t think there are any statistics. But when I think of the most famous wineries in China, they are run by women.”
Such is the case in Zhang's home region of northern Ningxia, where tens of thousands of hectares of vineyards have been nestled in the terracotta beneath the Helan Mountain Range over the past few decades.
Besides Helan Qingxue, many of its best-known producers – Silver Heights, Kanaan Winery, Jade Vineyard – are run by women.
“There are more and more excellent female winemakers (in the world) now,” Zhang said as he gave AFP a tour of the estate's cool, dark cellar.
“But it's very interesting in Ningxia… Women owners and winemakers, women marketing staff and women receptionists probably make up more than 60 percent (of the workforce), so that proportion is quite significant.”
– “Not a traditional industry” –
The youth of China's wine industry has helped women gain a foothold, compared to more established wine-producing countries.
In the West, the sector “is very male-dominated because it's a traditional industry,” Walker said.
“For China, wine is not a traditional industry… It's a very safe sector to open a business if you're a woman.”
In Ningxia, the state's enthusiastic support for the sector has provided a wealth of opportunities for all those interested in it.
Zhang met his co-founders, former civil servants, while they were working together in local government.
When the two men asked Zhang – then still in her twenties – to become a winemaker for their retirement plan, she agreed on the condition that they send her to study abroad.
Many other young women did the same, Zhang said, and when they returned they were among those most qualified to take advantage of the nation's booming wine scene.
– “The blossoming of Yin” –
Emma Gao of Silver Heights was one of the first Chinese women to earn a degree in oenology. Today, her wines are served by President Xi Jinping to European leaders at state dinners.
Gao was sent to the Bordeaux wine region of France by her father, who founded the vineyard.
“I think China is very tolerant of women, and we even see a little bit of yin (feminine strength) blossoming and yang (masculine) waning,” Gao laughed.
Silver Heights' modern, angular buildings are emblematic of its forward-thinking nature.
It is China's first certified biodynamic vineyard, using natural techniques such as fertilizer made from cow horns filled with manure.
In addition to the more familiar large metal cylinders, Gao's fermentation room contains smaller egg-shaped and vase-shaped vessels made from Ningxia clay.
“China is a relatively new production area, that is, its direction has not yet been determined,” Gao said as he sampled his experiences, nodding in agreement.
“This way we can try different methods of planting, brewing and fermenting in different containers.”
This spirit of exploration has borne fruit.
A sparkling wine made from local rice wine has become a commercial hit: “It’s something every girl should have in her bag to take to a house party because it has a good story to tell,” Gao said.
– “Living for yourself” –
Telling fascinating stories about wine is influencer Zhu Lili's domain.
Live in front of three cameras in a Beijing restaurant, she describes bottle after bottle with easy expertise – her mother runs another award-winning winery.
Pop-up links allowed its two million subscribers to make immediate purchases.
Online sales are a major source of revenue for producers, and streamers like Zhu are key to attracting new consumers.
“Middle-aged mothers really like my videos because it’s the life they haven’t had time to explore,” Zhu said.
Learning about wine is like “living for yourself.”
Classic Chinese spirits – beer and baijiu, a strong grain alcohol – are widely associated with and consumed by men.
But “the cultural way wine is promoted here is very sophisticated” and appeals to women, Walker said.
Female students make up the vast majority of students in wine courses, both Walker and Zhang noted.
Although men still buy more wine, Zhu said, women are more open to trying new things.
“For me, it’s like how Chinese men and women treat fashion,” says Sophie Zhou, who runs a trendy specialty bar in Beijing’s historic alleyways.
Just as women are more likely to try new seasonal looks, her customers “usually opt for different eyewear, so they can try different styles and tastes.”
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