Fragrance trends in 2024 include transparency, biotechnology and nostalgia.

As the world slowly emerged from the depths of the COVID-19 pandemic, the ongoing political, environmental and financial crises continued to shape the business. And in fragrances, these instabilities were set to drive and accelerate various trends over the next two years.

CosmeticsDesign-Europe caught up with many fragrance experts on the Cosmetics Global showfloor in Paris last month to find out more.

Samira Boundine, Head of Global Strategic Marketing at Eurofragrance: Generally, when a crisis strikes, people go back in time.

According to Boumdine, today’s industry operates in markets with multiple crises, from the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic to the Ukrainian-Russian conflict, rising raw material, gas and transportation costs. And all of this affected not only production, but also consumer expectations, she said.

In general, when you are in crisis, people come back to the past. Because that’s what they know and their comfort. For this reason, she says, nostalgia will be a key trend in fragrance innovation over the next two years, as it was already done in fashion and food.

Now it’s the time of the Spice Girls in the 2000s, she said. Last year there was a lot of scent around the bubble gum of vanilla, honey and orange blossom (), which was also very popular last year. But I think the vanilla oriental fragrance is back. All of this floral pattern from the CK1 era is very clean and a little hygienic, and it’s back again. Large flowers are also very important.

In addition, she said, pleasing perfumes will be central as consumers seek to incorporate fragrances into their lives more comprehensively.

But when perfume brands and fragrance makers sought to take advantage of these nostalgic and well-being opportunities, Boumdine said they would do so in a difficult financial and political context.

Elose Desroches, Communication and Marketing Project Manager at Sozio: Consumers Want More Transparency

Mathilde Cleret, marketing manager at Sozio, said today’s European fragrance market, which spans personal care, home care, aerosols and perfumes, also faces many limitations and guidelines that pose additional challenges to the industry.

In addition to this, she said consumer expectations for health and the environment are rising rapidly. It’s a big, big theme, what clients are looking for. It’s a really good scent that’s healthy for you, good for the environment and for everyone.

Elose Desroches, Sozio’s Communications and Marketing Project Manager, agreed: The same is true for fine fragrances, as consumers want more transparency and are clearly asking brands what to put in their perfumes.

In response, Cleret said Sogio has developed a clean fragrance line with its own label that makes all the ingredients used in the formula more transparent and fully disclosed to reassure consumers. ..

When asked what the Star Fragrance trends would be for the next two years, they both said they were upcycled ingredients.

Victoria Horem, Communication Manager at Technico Flor: Natural fragrances are great, but responsible fragrances are better.

Horem, of course, agreed on the future of fragrances with a focus on sustainability and the transition to formulations that protect the planet and its natural resources.

Creating a natural scent is great, but responsible scents are better because we have to consume and protect the planet. That is very important today. We are creative and able to create completely responsible scents.

To address this, TechniFlo has developed a collection based on upcycled ingredients for toiletries, cosmetics and premium fragrances, Horem said. And this shift to upcycling, along with biotechnology, will continue to be a trend for the next few years, she said.

Perfumers and fragrance makers will increasingly look to biotechnology to create new ingredients and new molecules for tomorrow’s more sustainable and more responsible formulas. Aitana Lopezde Carrion, Global Fine Fragrance Development Manager at CPL Aromas, previously emphasized biotechnology and smart sourcing as the key to green driving across fragrances.

Hasine Bumin, Fragrance Evaluator for EPS Fragrances: Need innovation to add value to fragrances

Bumin agreed that new technologies will be important to fragrance developers in the future as the industry competes to stay fresh in these fast-moving categories.

To be prioritized in the market, fragrances need to be added value. And how can I do that? She said some technologies needed to be improved, adding value to the fragrance and innovations that made the customer’s products more prominent in the market.

She said that beyond science like biotechnology, technologies that add to the overall consumer experience of the finished product are also important.

People need to experience fragrances in new ways. This will also be a new trend in terms of technology and innovation.

And these efforts are within the broader and longer-term need for natural and naturally effective scents in the face of raw material crises and climate change pressures, Bumin said.

Anthony Pegard, Aroma Cosmetic Lab Manager, Robertet’s Fragrance: Fragrance is not just a scent, but something else

Looking at his work in nature, Pegard said it is becoming increasingly important to evaluate the ingredients of the formula, with the aim of designing scents that go beyond scents.

At Robertet, the team was innovating in this area under what is called an active scent program, which designs fragrances that provide beauty activities such as Blu-ray protection through specific botanical extracts.

This is our vision for the future of scents for us. The scent exists not only as a scent, but also as something else.

Pegard said the concept also proves important in the development of emotion-inducing fragrances, a topic set to become extremely hot throughout the industry in the coming months and years. I did. He said designing a fragrance to create a series of emotional statements would produce great results for the industry.

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