Panerai's Submersible Elux Lab ID Dive Watch Creates Its Own Light Show

Additionally, innovative uses of luminous material have become something of a power play in fine watchmaking – it was only a few weeks ago that IWC unveiled its all-luminous concept watch, for example – and in recent years we've seen a number of examples of luminous material being used as an aesthetic medium rather than a functional one.

But luminous paint isn't what Panerai is going for with the Supermersible Elux Lab ID: instead, an array of LEDs powered by electricity generated by the movement illuminate the watch's functions.

Press the button on the left side of the case to turn the light on, press it again to turn it off—a simple concept that Pontelou says has been eight years in the making for the brand's special projects team, which works under the name Laboratoriao di Idee, or Lab-ID for short.

They have a brief that you could basically write on a postage stamp. “You have to give it time and get the patent,” he said, noting that the patent itself is as much the ultimate goal as the product itself. This is the only project where we don't have any idea of ​​the deadline. We know it's going to be very expensive and the failure rate is very high. But it has to be groundbreaking for the industry, not just introduce something new for Panerai.

The first of four patents for the Submersible Elux Lab ID (just call it Elux for short) is for the activation button. The safety protects the watch from both shocks and water pressure, which could otherwise accidentally push the watch down while diving, says Anthony Serpri, Panerai's head of research and development and head of Lab ID's Skunkworks.

Serpuri says his team currently has about 150 projects in the works, but only a few will see the light of day. One of those is the watch's blue-tinted case material, which is also patented. A type of ceramized titanium that the brand calls Ti-Ceramitech, it consists of a titanium alloy that is plasma electrolytically oxidized (the application of high-current pulses in an electrolytic bath) to produce a thick, scratch-resistant layer of blue ceramic across its entire surface. Serpuri says the patent covers the material development, specifically the titanium alloy composition to achieve the blue color.

But the real business here, of course, is the light show. A handful of luxury watchmakers, including HYT, De Bethune and jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels, have previously experimented with mechanical, on-demand light, but the results have been limited, offering only a dull glow for a few seconds.

Panerai's technology, on the other hand, lights up the entire display of the watch with a multitude of micro LEDs that are said to provide a glow time of 30 minutes – in fact, the glow will last as long as the wearer keeps moving. The Elux is an automatic watch, meaning that the oscillating weight that winds the movement winds the mechanism and creates the glow.

This is achieved by packing in an extra barrel, a cylinder that houses the watch's energy reservoir: the mainspring. Most mechanical watches have one of these, but the Elux has six: two power the timekeeping, while the remaining four generate electrical energy via small but powerful dynamo devices.

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