For Miho Fujita, “Rules are meant to be broken in the world of sake.”

On a snowy winter day, Miho Fujita, head of the Myouya Shuzo sake brewery in Ishikawa Prefecture, wears a white jacket and picks up a long wooden paddle. Before hand-mashing the rice in a bucket of yeast — a mixture of steamed rice, water, and koji (steamed rice infused with koji mold, which converts starch into sugar) — she listens to a Korean pop song from the speaker.

In ancient times, brewers would sing work songs to lighten the burden of the arduous process used in the traditional kimoto method. Fujita knows these ancient tunes by heart, but she has modernized the tradition in her own way, giving a modern twist to the ancient craft. This progressive spirit is emblematic of how she has approached every aspect of Mioya Shuzo's management over the past 20 years.

Fujita's journey into the world of sake began in 2000 when her father, a Hakuei native, bought Myouya Shozo Brewery, a brewery that was on the verge of bankruptcy. When her uncle, who ran the company, died suddenly in 2003, Fujita decided to take on the position – despite her successful career in marketing in Tokyo and the obstacles she faced as a woman in a male-dominated industry.

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