Banda Aceh, Indonesia, 20 years later

Simon Orwin

(Credit: Simon Orwin)

On 26 December 2004, at 07:59 local time, an undersea earthquake measuring 9.1 on the Richter scale struck an area 240 km west of Sumatra, Indonesia, rupturing the largest longitudinal fault of any recorded earthquake (1,500 km long), and releasing Energy equivalent to 23,000 atomic bombs.

The tsunami it generated spread across the Indian Ocean at speeds of up to 800 kilometers per hour (as fast as a jet plane), devastating coastal areas in more than a dozen countries and killing 230,000 people in what became one of the greatest natural disasters. In modern history.

But Indonesia's Aceh province – a province already suffering from decades of civil war – was hardest hit, especially the capital, Banda Aceh, as waves reaching 20 to 30 meters high swept through the city, destroying more than 60% of its buildings and destroying more than 60% of its buildings. Its buildings. Killing an estimated 61,000 people (about 25% of the population).

Twenty years later, Banda Aceh has been rebuilt and is thriving again. “The transformation has been phenomenal,” says Sam Clark, of the UK-based Experience Travel Group, which recently launched tours to the city. “It is a testament to the fortitude of the people of Aceh when they saw how Banda Aceh rose from the water.”

Clark goes on to cite the local people, their culture and the poignant tsunami memorials as some of the highlights to visit here, as well as the town's proximity to other attractions including the coffee-growing Gayo Highlands and the snorkeling and diving sites on Wehe Island. And the rainforests of Gunung Leuser National Park – one of the last places on Earth where endangered orangutans live in the wild. “Banda Aceh and the wider province represent the final frontier of adventure tourism in Indonesia,” he says. “For the intrepid traveler, it is a place worth seeking out.”

Simon Orwin

(Credit: Simon Orwin)

A once powerful kingdom

Aceh, an autonomous province of Indonesia since 1949, was an independent sultanate that reached the height of its power in the 17th century during the reign of Iskandar Muda. The main relic from this time is Gunungan, a recreational park and bathing place. According to popular stories, it was a gift for Muda's favorite wife, the Princess of Pahang, and was built in the shape of a stylized mountain to relieve the homesickness she felt for the highlands of her homeland.

Simon Orwin

(Credit: Simon Orwin)

Holy city

In the thirteenth century, Aceh became the first Islamic stronghold in the Indonesian archipelago. Banda Aceh was the last stopping point for many Asian pilgrims before they sailed to the Arabian Peninsula for the Hajj, and became known as the “gateway to Mecca.” The Baitur Rahman Grand Mosque is the city's greatest religious building and is open to visitors of all faiths. The mosque survived the tsunami intact – a sign many interpreted as divine intervention – and in the immediate aftermath served as a shelter for survivors and a makeshift morgue for bodies awaiting identification.

Simon Orwin

(Credit: Simon Orwin)

Wave of destruction

The largest mass grave in the city is the Serone Tsunami Memorial Park where 46,718 unidentified bodies are buried. On a memorial statue of the advancing waves, there is an inscription in Arabic: “Be and it will be.”

“It indicates the power of God’s will,” says local guide Mahlizar (Acehnese traditionally use only the first name). “Everything is decided by God. Whether someone drowns, is swept out to sea, is never found, or is never named, we must accept and respect His decision, even if we do not understand the reason behind it.”

Simon Orwin

(Credit: Simon Orwin)

The power of stories

One of the most famous symbols of the tsunami is the fishing boat that came to rest on top of a house in the village of Lambulu, about a kilometer from where it was originally anchored. “That day, I thought the earth was going to split in two,” says Bondia, one of 59 people who survived by climbing aboard the ship to escape the rising waters.

Bondia is a regular visitor to the site, where she shares her memories with visitors. “Telling our stories honors the past and helps us process what happened so we can move forward into the light.”

Simon Orwin

(Credit: Simon Orwin)

Aceh high

The tsunami led to an unprecedented humanitarian response and international relief efforts. More than 140,000 homes were built, along with thousands of kilometers of new roads, bridges, schools, parks, hospitals and mosques. “The physical scars were removed quickly, but the grief and psychological trauma took much longer,” Malizar says. “Our faith has been a great comfort and a vital part of the healing process.”

Simon Orwin

(Credit: Simon Orwin)

The common thread of happiness

Many locals credit the strength of Aceh's culture and community as key factors in dealing with this tragedy. “The deep roots of our history and traditions help make us unshakable,” says Rozna, a member of the Tinon Songket Aceh Nyakmo Weaving Cooperative.

She explains that the centuries-old Acehnese style of bento remains popular with her customers, as it was in the time of the first sultans. “We see it in the shirts, shawls and gowns worn at weddings, births and Eid celebrations. It unites us all in moments of great happiness.”

Simon Orwin

(Credit: Simon Orwin)

Dance in harmony

Hasanul, a dancer, believes Aceh's strong sense of identity is clearly evident in its traditional dances. “Most importantly, we do it as a group, as one,” she says. “The Lambuan Ranop shows how much we love to welcome guests and visitors, and the Sudati River shows the strength of our people and our faith.” (The origin of the word “Sawdati” is from the word “Shahada”, the first of the five pillars of Islam.)

Simon Orwin

(Credit: Simon Orwin)

Coffee culture

In the 20 years since the tsunami, café culture has become a new element in Banda Aceh's identity, with black Kopi Sareng coffee (coffee filtered through a soft, porous “sock”) the most popular on the menu. “There is no life without it,” says Mazakir, a barista at Solong, the city's oldest café, which he tells me sells more than 1,000 cups a day. “The only thing we stop drinking coffee for is prayer. And that's just for 15 to 20 minutes.”

Simon Orwin

(Credit: Simon Orwin)

Excellent combination

Many cafés serve Gayo coffee, grown in the Gayo highlands near the town of Takengon in Aceh, and whose volcanic soil produces rich Arabica beans with flavors of chocolate, nuts and caramel. “It is now considered one of the finest coffees in the world,” says Mazakir. “This is important in changing the perception of the area. It is no longer just about the tsunami.”

Simon Orwin

(Credit: Simon Orwin)

It's good to talk

Mazakir believes that coffee played a pivotal role in the city's transformation. “It's a tool for the community,” he says. “It encourages open conversation between men and women and allows us to explore new ideas and ways forward. Nokia once had a catchphrase about its phones connecting people. In Aceh, it is coffee that serves the same function.”

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