Humbled and a Little Fear Speed

Shake: Earthquake, Mythical Guide to the Mountains and Everest’s Deadliest Feast

University of New Mexico Press (2020, 214 p.)

To climb Mount Everest – at 29,029 feet, the highest peak in the world – one prepares for every misery known to mankind such as hypoxia, gastrointestinal dysfunction, organ closures, high temperatures, collapsing through fissures, suffocation and a crushed skull due to an avalanche – but an earthquake is not One of them.

Until spring 2015.

“is this normal?” A member of the 2015 RMI expedition wondered when the ground began to shake “like jello” as they were housed in a single camp, in the shadow of Everest at 19689 feet, on April 25.

The leader of the 10-man expedition, and veteran Taos mountain guide, Dave Hahn, knew it was just not normal, having summed up the unique tricky climax 15 times by then, in all sorts of other extreme situations since his first success in 1994.

The last major earthquake in Nepal was in 1934, as author Jennifer Hull, Taos’s teacher, explains in this dramatic and stressful novel. With a magnitude of 8.0, the epicenter was located 6 miles south of Everest, killing more than 16,000 people.

In fact, the Himalayas were formed by the collision of two enormous tectonic plates, the Indo-Australian and the Asian, over the past 50 million years, “as India slowly burst from below and pushed the edge of Asia, like a pie rising from the plate,” Hull writes. Friction continues to push mountains up 1.77 inches each year. Hall warns that “the pent-up seismic pressure will ultimately, inevitably, need to be released.”

While no one on the 2015 RMI Expedition – made up of six seasoned operatives, two base hikers, two guides, a Sherpa Serdar (commander) and a base camp manager – had contemplated an earthquake that impeded their ascent, they were all seriously apprehensive of death. The Khumbu Waterfall Glacier Trail was prone to avalanches – and had already killed 16 climbers the previous spring.

So what exactly is the appeal of this misery? For the indigenous Sherpas, the mountain they know as Chomolungma, “Goddess of Mother Earth”, was to be revered as the abode of the gods, while Westerners considered it a target to be conquered. “Because it’s there,” British traveler George Mallory answered the question of why he wanted to climb Everest. He and his climbing partner Andrew “Sandy” Irvine disappeared during their historic attempt to reach the summit in June 1924.

For Han, that was a job, and his life’s work. In a moment full of irony, 75 years after Mallory’s death, in 1999, Hahn was one of those leading the search team to find an intact Mallory corpse on Everest’s north face at 27,000 feet, where he and Irvine apparently fell to their deaths. .

Hence, Han’s legendary career as a search-and-rescue guide, and a great confidence throughout his long career after climbing into vast areas of Denali in Alaska, Finson Massif in Antarctica, Kilimanjaro of Africa, Aconcagua in South America, and Chu Oyo in Nepal, among others. It holds the record for any non-Nepalese peaks at the summit of Everest.

Hull’s work evolves chronologically, as the RMI team moves through what was promised an eight-week effort, from hitting Kathmandu to four successive camps before the perilous stadium to the top. She switches perspectives and shares individual blog entries, so the reader gets to know the different personalities of the affluent middle-aged male American clients (CEOs, venture capitalists) who have financed “over $ 70,000” for the group’s climb. Moreover, hikers mingle in the various base camps and cross paths with several international climbing groups, as helicopter tours spin crazy over their heads, in what has become a vibrant tourism industry on a large scale Nepal is making an effort to control, especially with regard to the waste left behind. Climbers and Sherpa exploitation.

Throughout this diligent work, Hall’s image of Han is even more compelling – there is quiet humility about this steadfast guide through the extremes of human endurance. He is patient – say, in his necessary interview upon his arrival in Kathmandu with fiercely delicate Elizabeth Hawley, at 92 Dean of Records Keeping Everest – and he is desperately prepared, modest, and most importantly, calm in a moment of disaster.

I first met Hal Han when he visited a classroom at Taos Middle School in 2000; Then, she became the one telling the earthquake story instead of herself – because, as he told her, he’d rather climb.

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