A little bit of history bis: Chinatown

In 2014, a tour guide scolded the streets of Chinatown in San Francisco: “Here in America we don’t eat turtles and frogs … When you come to America, you have to grasp a little.” The irony is evident, given that Chinatown was created precisely because racial legislation made assimilation impossible for Asian Americans.

Before 1906, legally isolated Chinese society in San Francisco was much like other areas of the city: rows of Italian-Victorian facades. Blamed for the lack of jobs across America since the late 19th century and its relegation to overseas status under the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, their ghettoized neighborhood was a haven from physical violence.

Then, on April 18, 1906, a terrible earthquake shook San Francisco. The resulting fires lasted for three days.

In 1885, a municipal report for the area contained details of brothels, as well as gambling and opium dens. Even slum tourism has sprung up, where “thrill-seeking” visitors can witness supposed corruption in dark buildings. When Chinese residents fled their burning homes, the San Franciscans shouted that they would never return.

San Francisco officials were pleased with the opportunity to relocate Chinese families to the outskirts of the city, where the slaughterhouses were, in exchange for “well-educated”, “productive” and “beautiful” (ie, white) citizens.

Chinese businessmen knew that San Francisco was a major trading center with China. They appealed to Empress Dowager Cixi, who sent her cultural leader from Washington to meet with San Francisco officials. After business owners announced that they were leaving San Francisco and going to Tacoma or Portland, the mayor disbanded plans to relocate Chinatown in an unprecedented political victory for Chinese Americans.

Chinese families are tired of Chinatown’s reputation as a vice.

Look at Tin Elly, a Chinese businessman born in America, discover that if tourists are always looking for an illusory “East”, it might be best to give them what they want. People harassed Chinese immigrants for being alienated. If Chinatown emphasizes their ethnicity in a way that visitors consider enjoyable rather than disgusting, then people will leave them alone.

Eli hired white designers to rebuild Chinatown using photos of ancient Song designs. Religious temples became the ceiling décor of supermarkets. Dragon statues, which had traditionally guarded royal palaces, surrounded the banks instead. Painted large gates and red lanterns formed the look of the famous Chinatown we know today.

Chinatown has become a monument to consumerism. Its theme park riots have perfectly nurtured the fantasies of the white middle class in America.

Anti-China sentiment decreased. Newspapers praised Chinatown: in 1909, the newsletter wrote, “Chinatown is one of the most famous places on the American continent. We have for a long time placed in the public eye the racial grief that separates … the people of the Earth.”

Chinese Americans still faced a lot of legal discrimination, but they were more acceptable. They embellished their weirdness to survive. What else can you do when the law treats you as an outsider? Otherwise, how would you live in a country that forces you to strike a weak balance between accommodating the ideal minority and an interesting cultural offer, neither of which is sufficient?

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