Sabyasachi opens largest flagship in Mumbai – WWD

Bombay— Indian designer Sabyasachi has again raised the bar on its store scale, opening a 25,862 square foot flagship just off Mumbai’s Horniman Circle area.

In the neighborhood are a standalone Hermès store, also housed in a heritage building, and a Christian Louboutin boutique, among others.

The Mumbai store is Sabyasachi’s largest to date and comes as the designer’s team is also growing rapidly, with Sumati Mattu this month being named general manager. Mattu previously worked for consumer goods company Hindustan Unilever, a subsidiary of Unilever Ltd.

Sabyasachi’s stores slowly generated buzz given their size, extravagant interiors, and equally over-the-top merchandise.

Keeping his retail plan deliberate, cohesive and clearly defined, the designer oversees every design detail globally, like in the flagship Sabyasachi which opened last October on Christopher Street in New York, and now in the sprawling store in Mumbai.

“It’s very simple,” he said in an exclusive interview. “When I started retail, even for my first store, it was 60% experience and 40% retail. I kept the same formula, only store scales became more It doesn’t matter where we are, the price of the range, how big or how big, but we try to be close to that.”

The point of such a maximalist frame is clearly a contrast with his own personality.

“I use maximalism as an expression of art, but I’m a minimalist myself. It doesn’t have to be a reflection of who I am, but rather what I’m trying to do; India is a maximalist country, people love maximalism, people love decoration, color, opulence, depth and layering,” the designer said. “It’s a privilege to be in India because no other country does not celebrate it as India does and there is no reason to stray from it.

“I always told myself that luxury doesn’t really sell in a cramped environment, because you have to pay as much attention to the atmosphere as to the product”, he observes, insisting on the importance of “the experiential “.

On the contrary, the store is cramped only by what it displays.

“It’s like a museum,” fashion and design consultant Fern Mallis said of the new store. “I think in the future you should be able to buy all these things on display there, and I hope in the future you can.”

The store’s 100 chandeliers add to the sense of wonder created by the 150 works of art, 275 rugs, large pottery, vases, vintage chairs and private tea area. It is an invitation to enter another world.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president of the fashion office and director of womenswear and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman, described it best when she told WWD “I’ve lived in the realm of stores my entire career, and the new Sabyasachi Emporium is truly beyond any store ever created.

“He transcended the idea of ​​a store and instead invited us into a ‘world’ – his world – layered, unparalleled, collected and sensual. It’s a new idea of ​​luxury, one that indulges all the senses. and transforms ideas about how selling is integrated into something more noble.

“That alone speaks to Sabyasachi’s new way of approaching the art of selling, making it secondary,” she continued. “He showed respect for the client and what he should feel above all else. The industry has been talking for years about the importance of “experience” in retail, but few are heeding this conversation. Sabyasachi went above and beyond this ideal and created an unforgettable experience. India, or anywhere else in the world, has seen nothing like it.

Spending time creating, organizing and visualizing his stores to keep them cohesive, Sabyasachi is clear that it’s not just the merchandise that needs to fill the space.

It’s also music, which he uses as a powerful retail tool, unique to his personality and sensibility.

“You know, when people talk about Sabyasachi, the first thing people say is that we are culture changers,” he said. “I think sometimes the best way to celebrate culture is through music. I draw a lot of inspiration from music when designing my clothes – music is a very important expression of culture and music to me, and very often manages to cross the elusive boundaries of nostalgia, and manages in a way or another to capture the spirit of the times.

“When we create our playlists for music, which is quite eclectic, it’s about yesterday, today and tomorrow, nostalgia, the power of youth and the promise of the future. “, did he declare.

While the music ties the different elements together in many ways, the store itself captures the essence of Sabyasachi’s own journey: there’s a micro-exhibition from the Sabyasachi archives showcasing couture from the inaugural Sabyasachi x Christian Louboutin collaboration, Bater, in 2015 and its sequel, Firdaus, in 2016. There is the Bengal tiger; her wedding clothes; the intricate and resplendent jewelry selection, and, for the first time, her New York boutique collection is available in India.

The designs of the New York collection are different. “The store is sternly and fiercely proud of India, but at the same time there’s a tribute to the New Yorker, to their love of pragmatic sensibilities,” he said. “So while we have embroidery, while we have opulence, while we have Indian craftsmanship, the silhouettes, the expressions are also inherently very modern. It makes the clothes more relevant, not the suits.

As for how the collections will work in different countries, he was quick to say that it won’t be a cookie-cutter model. “I think the beauty of having different merchandise in different stores opens up the possibility of travel for the customer. I think whether you’re a small brand or a big brand, you always have to keep the customer engaged in the art of discovery “, did he declare.

Launching new businesses is part of the plan. “The idea and reason I invested was to have the ability to multiply and grow the business because I didn’t want to lead a selfish existence where the business grew and died with me. I think I’m going to spend the next 15 years transitioning the business so it stays strong after I’m gone,” he said.

The investment in 2019 by Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd. gave him support for faster retail growth, but still, as he explained, that means investing 49% for every 51% the group invests, and both sides believe in a “slow, evolved in growth and are not in a hurry.

However, Sabyasachi is clear that it is time to develop certain segments before going further with more stores.

“I don’t see Sabyasachi as a fashion brand, it’s a lifestyle brand – but it’s a lifestyle brand that works more with craftsmanship and luxury craftsmanship,” he said. -he declares. “At some point there will be restaurants, hotels, real estate, who knows?”

While there are clearly big collaborations to come, beauty is also in sight and will be unveiled soon, he said.

Although he is surrounded by a host of admirers, including Bollywood stars and global celebrities, Sabyasachi has often said that he has to spend time alone to find the answers. What are the biggest questions he faces?

“The question I ask myself now is how important will India be in global fashion,” he said. “Because I see change happening and I want to know what it really means for Indian designers. It’s a time when a lot of water is going to be stirred up but I hope Indian designers can stay on the right track. way, retain their identity.

“I have always said that if you believe in yourself, it will only be a matter of time before the world believes in you. And right now it is even more important for Indian designers to stay on track with an Indian identity,” he said, adding, “Because India is barely preparing for world domination.”