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How to Wear the Coolest Suits of the Season

How to Wear the Coolest Suits of the Season

 


A few years ago, as pandemic restrictions were being lifted, Bruce Pask, then director of menswear at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, was surprised when the famous retailer experienced a run on tuxedos and other outfits evening. Until he realized: Calendars were suddenly filling up with all these postponed weddings, birthdays and other celebrations.

Despite the assumption that we would never get rid of our sweats, whenever special occasions present themselves (and they always do), most men still reflexively reach for their nearest tailored two-piece , despite all attempts to make it obsolete, including the comfortable triple whammy of streetwear, athleisure, and years-long directives to stay at home, away from gatherings. It looks like the suit will outlive us all.

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A three-piece evening look in white wool blend from Louis Vuitton's New Formal men's collection.A three-piece evening look in white wool blend from Louis Vuitton's New Formal men's collection.

A three-piece evening look in white wool blend from the Louis Vuitton Mens New Formal collection.

Which does not mean that the seam has remained immobile, far from it. The power of the costume lies in its elasticity, its ability to evolve over time. Today, that means embracing creativity. It used to be that the bold choice was a navy evening suit, says Pask, now senior editorial director at Neiman Marcus. But modern evening wear is a whole different game. Lately, Pask has been impressed by the ease of silhouette that comes through in men's clothing. Although it remains elegant and refined, he says, the intention is different: it is very relaxed. Ilaria Urbinati, the celebrity stylist who keeps Donald Glover, Rami Malek, and, this year, Barry Keoghan, atop everyone's best-dressed lists, agrees. I love all the play with proportions, she says. Short jackets, longer jackets, looser pants, there's so much fun to be had.

A quick look around confirms that the suit is indeed becoming more flexible these days, both literally and figuratively. Louis Vuitton recently released an eveningwear capsule that features, in addition to more traditional suits, a double-breasted number subtly adorned with the LV logo as well as a party-ready peak lapel look adorned with a sprinkling of glitter (the effect is shimmering). similar to the headliner Rolls-Royces Starlight, in a good way). At Zegna, traditional codes were reduced to matching linen sets in dove gray, mint green and tobacco brown, while Brioni focused on carefree double-breasted jackets. Gucci embraced the swaggering 1970s vibe for spring while Giorgio Armani, who arguably pioneered this languorous look some forty years ago, surprisingly emerged of the moment with much the same approach .

Pask suggests that a voluminous pair of pants is the quickest and easiest way to inject contemporary flair into your formal outfit, somewhat ironically, since the silhouette is anything but new. Look to the '40s and '50s, with the Hollywood waist, baggier pants and fitted top, suggests Pask. And while the red carpet is for bolder statements—think Donald Glover in a sand-colored Fear of God suit, or Rami Malek in soft layers by ZegnaUrbinati—it's still a good place to take inspiration from the real world. She suggests pleated or straight pants that sit higher on the waist and counteract the baggier leg with a fitted jacket. For those still stuck in the skinny suit phase and unsure where to find looser (but still sophisticated) clothes, Urbinati recommends Ami, in Paris, Stffa in New York, and Amiri, in Los Angeles.

A spectacular black wool formal coat from Gucci.A spectacular black wool formal coat from Gucci.

A spectacular black wool formal coat from Gucci.

The rest of the look matters too. Instead of the starched white shirts of old, try a shirt in the same color family as the rest of what you're wearing. I love tone-on-tone looks, says Urbinati. Take a nice blue suit and pair it with a shirt in a different shade of blue. Or brown, I love fall colors. Better yet: Ditch the tie altogether and replace it with a crewneck knit or fine-gauge polo shirt. Finish it not with sneakers (the easiest way to disguise yourself in a suit, now tired) but with classic loafers. I love rounder, curvier, thicker options, Urbinati says, citing examples from Tods and Farewell like stars. Leather slip-ons are also gaining ground.

What I love about the current moment is that there is no one sartorial path, says Pask. It's about what makes you feel good, what makes you comfortable, and what you want to present. There are many ways for men to explore suits.

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