Paris Fashion Week: designers keep men's fashion utilitarian and chic

Utility chic and understated luxury were the two main themes of the recently concluded Paris men's fashion week.

The SS25 edition was less dramatic and more practical, with a variety of lightweight, breathable and wearable pieces. From crisp blazers, knitted vests and sweaters to workwear-inspired jackets, easy pants and camp collar shirts, most showcases lean towards masculine elegance instilling ergonomic elements.

Clinical whites, sandy beiges, olive greens, dark blue and black as well as a touch of metallic hues appeared on the catwalks of brands like Hermès, Dior Men, Ami and Officine Générale with a play of layers and accents with bold accessories. Hermès' menswear show, by contrast, was a delightful dialogue about summer layering, from work jackets thrown casually over camp-collar shirts to printed co-ords. Kim Jones' Dior Men, meanwhile, entered into an artistic alliance with ceramicist Hylton Nel, which resulted in studded outlines, artistically dotted across shoes and suits.

Here are some key trends that have emerged:

Chore jackets galore

Workwear-inspired blazers and jackets, lightweight multi-pocket parkas in technical fabrics (which were also seen in Milan earlier) made their presence felt on the Paris catwalk. This season, it's all about patch pockets, as evidenced by chore jackets at Hermès, Dior Men and Officine Générale.

The classic tailored suit may not be completely out of style, but an open-collared work jacket and languid pants seem to be becoming increasingly popular. Robert Pattinson at the Dior Homme show also showed up in an open Nehru collar jacket worn with matching pants.

Surrealist forces come into play

Trompe l'oeil prints and embroideries, which deceive the eye and invite another look, gave their presence like never before. For example, at Comme des Garons Homme Plus, designer Rei Kawakubo sent out jackets embossed with images of layers of unbuttoned shirts and other jackets. Ditto at Acne Studios, where jeans were printed with key rings that appeared to hang from the waist. At Ottolinger, a bodysuit was printed with a shirt, tie and blazer.

Double-breasted tailoring is also here to stay. The Louis Vuitton show saw slim, double-breasted coats and suits with straight or flared pants.

The classic double-breasted suit appeared on many runways, but in an open, breezy, relaxed buttoned format, seen at Junya Watanabe, Hed Mayner and Amiri. Particularly worth mentioning are the DB upcycled jackets at Junya Watanabe. Amiri's showcase highlighted the ease and freedom afforded by a relaxed fit. The brand's signature double-breasted jacket was half-lined and featured a generously proportioned dropped peak lapel. This was gentle tailoring at its best.

Renaissance of heritage

Through the magnifying glass centered on the journeys of the seasons, the Louis Vuitton collection has infused the emblems of the house with a sensory and textural impact. Inspired by the surface of the skin, the embossed Monogram appeared on tone-on-tone constructions in ready-to-wear. Evoking animal skin, Damoflage, a new classic mixed with Checkerboard and camouflage, has been adapted into a “Snake-o-Flage”: pattern inspired by the graphics of the python and made in textile. At Dior Homme, several looks offer a thoughtful homage to feminine creations from the Dior archives: pleated pants that have evolved into wrap closures.

Print Charming

From the horse and swirling harness prints seen at Hermès to the floral and botanical prints at Kenzo, it was a season rich in luscious patterns. Many ikat and folkloric prints were also spotted at Isabel Marant.

Manish Mishra is a writer and content creator based in Delhi.