PAUSE Highlights: The best moments from Paris Fashion Week Men’s SS25 – PAUSE Online

As the season draws to a close, we look back at what may be one of those moments that will go down in fashion history. Dries Van Noten took an emotional final bow to celebrate his 38-year career, making for the most poignant moment of the week. Other established names like Sacai and Loewe presented collections that reinterpreted their iconic styles for a modern audience.

Technical fabrics with technical qualities were a recurring theme, while sustainable and recycled materials made appearances on several runways. This focus on innovation suggests a future where fashion prioritizes both style and functionality.

As the next wave of trends hits stores, let's take a look back at some of the key takeaways from the Paris runways:

For SS25, Rick Owens assembled an army of 200 white-clad students, who paraded down the runway at the Palais de Tokyo to the sound of a Hollywood movie soundtrack. Moving away from dark colours and heavy materials this season, Owens opted for lighter, more floaty silhouettes.

The show was punctuated by form-fitting silk tops, offset by sharp angles that swooped off the shoulders, a Rick Owens signature. Some models sported crisp white faces accented by dramatic eyeliner, channeling a signature goth vibe. Denim capes, meticulously crafted from Japanese fabric, added a touch of rebellion with their distressed gold accents. The collection then took a turn, with models adorned with ornate, arched headdresses, a clear demarcation within Rick Owens’ army.

Driven by a desire to transform the ordinary into the extraordinary, Jonathan Anderson presented his SS25 collection in Paris. Referencing the works of 20th-century masters such as Peter Hujar, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Carlo Scarpa and Paul Thek, a white stage served as the backdrop for an exhibition of artworks. Models then emerged from its centre to parade down the catwalk.

Classic silhouettes were imaginatively reimagined, black leather jackets were turned to the side while feather belts were elongated and wrapped twice around the waist. Adorned with headbands draped with pheasant feathers, the models all wore veiled faces. This unconventional touch underscored Anderson’s signature style: transforming the mundane into the unexpected.

This season, Chistose Abe channeled James Dean – the eminent American actor of the 1950s – and his love of discovery, merging different elements to create something new.

The theme of idealistic youth was ever-present in Abe’s SS25 co-ed collection for Sacai. The women’s line reimagines classic silhouettes with a striking architectural twist. With strong, defined shoulders and dramatically voluminous pants, transforming familiar designs into powerful statements of modern femininity.

The men’s collection was revisited with a touch of nostalgia. The classic Harrington jacket, a staple of James Dean’s look, was revisited with a Sacai twist. The result? A mix of vintage car motifs and floral prints. This hybrid design pays homage to Dean’s rebellious spirit while adding Sacai’s innovative touch. To complete the look, models wore books and glasses, suggesting a vibe that was both erudite and youthful. It’s a story of constant exploration and intellectual curiosity.

Feng Chen Wang’s SS25 collection takes his signature deconstructed style even further, with no fewer than 35 menswear looks, including statement overshoes and a unique collaboration on the UGG Tasman slipper. The collection unfolds like a story, moving from a somber mood with sleek grey officewear accented by pops of teal in ties, to a more practical scene with utility jackets, mesh polos and distressed cardigans. Earthy khakis and transitional browns fill the void before the collection explodes with Wang’s signature touches.

The rubber platform shoes unveiled on the day were the standout pieces of the collection. Models walked slowly down the runway in cream and brown ensembles, as if they were walking on the moon.

The world witnessed a poignant moment in fashion history this season. Antwerp Six legend Dries Van Noten presented his SS25 menswear collection, marking his final show before leaving his eponymous label. The runway, a glittering expanse of silver leaf reminiscent of Van Noten’s 2006 collection, became the stage for a collection that epitomized his signature style.

Tailoring, the cornerstone of Van Noten's work, remains important, with double-breasted and single-breasted suits and coats crafted in luxurious, soft fabrics. However, this foundation is disrupted by the introduction of organza tops and trousers, whose translucent volumes add a touch of whimsy to the collection.

The show was packed with industry insiders, friends and admirers of the brand, including fellow Antwerp Six designers, all on hand to witness this final bow. The prolonged applause that greeted Van Noten’s emotional finale was a reflection of his immense contribution to fashion. The evening was a true celebration. A celebration of a singular talent, a remarkable career and a legacy that will continue to inspire generations of designers to come.

Despite a star-studded front row, the Prototypes SS25 show stayed true to its name. The collection embraced the concept of “unfinished,” a core tenet of the brand. Industrial and music resonated through the room as models strode down the runway in a blur of motion. Their rapid pace created the illusion that they were hastily putting on or taking off their clothes, leaving the audience to wonder about the very purpose of each piece.

Models with masked faces added a touch of anonymity, while sheer elements, achieved through torn tights or vaporous chiffon veils, hinted at the underlying vulnerability. The color palette, limited to a stark contrast of black, red, white and denim, underscored the drama of the collection. However, what really made this show a Paris Fashion Week moment was the surprise arrival of Kanye West and his wife Bianca Censori, who diverted the attention from the clothes on the runway to the multidimensional artist.

To round off the week in style, Doublet ditched the traditional runway show for an anime-inspired fashion evening. True to the brand's playful spirit, Masayuki Ino filled the room with a contagious, festival-like energy that charmed the audience.

The collection offered a surprising mix of styles. Wool coats, traditionally considered military-inspired, were softened by fluffy metallic pom-poms. Images of cheerleaders, typically associated with sports and school spirit, were embroidered on V-neck sweaters. Elsewhere, ripped denim was given a luxurious touch by being paired with leather. Attendees were given personalized paddles to judge the designs on display, adding to the interactive aspect of the show.