How did Petaluma survive the 1906 earthquake?

It was April 18, 1906. The tragedy that occurred that day, 118 years ago now, was immediately described as the greatest natural disaster our country had ever seen.

The next day, the Petaluma Weekly Argus ran a headline.

“San Francisco is about to be destroyed!”

In the same horrific earthquake, the city of Santa Rosa was nearly destroyed. The epicenter of the giant quake was in West Marin County, but seismic waves swept the area for hundreds of miles in all directions.

In Petaluma, some chimneys were cracked, some brick buildings were slightly damaged, and the large glass dome of the Petaluma Library, which had been standing for two years, was split. There were no deaths or injuries here, but the Steamer Gold, a cargo ship packed with egg crates on its dock, was shaken so badly that nearly all of the eggs were shattered.

The next day, Petaluma Mayor Drees called a citizens' meeting to discuss how to provide immediate assistance and relief to the city of Santa Rosa and surrounding areas.

At that time there was a great deal of anxiety and tension here, with the belief that we must be next in line for disaster, and the Petaluma coroner rushed two trains north loaded with much-needed coffins, as well as medical aid and supplies.

There was turmoil everywhere.

But why was Petaluma saved?

Sebastopol to the west, Sonoma and Napa to the east, San Rafael to the south, and Santa Rosa to the north were all badly damaged! How did our little town survive such a disaster?

It was out of sheer caution that many Northern Californians slept outdoors for days that month, fearing that any aftershock could destroy their homes. Tents sprang up in yards and fields everywhere, as we inhaled smoke and ash from the many San Francisco fires that had been sparked by the quake. At the time, the Petaluma City Hall was quickly converted into an emergency supply center, resembling “a large grocery store.”

On April 20, the Petaluma weekly newspaper, The Argus, tried to comfort residents, assuring them that we could be generous.

“We have plenty of eggs, milk, potatoes, flour and poultry,” one editorial read.

Most of our relief efforts were directed to Santa Rosa, where thousands were displaced and more than 100 people died. In Marin County, the sheriff announced that 10,000 people were displaced and martial law was declared, with a red flag.

“Any ghoul who tries to steal the dead will be shot on sight!”

Fortunately, this did not happen in the end.

The epicenter of the quake was reported to have been in the small village of Olema in western Marin, adjacent to what is now Port Reyes National Seashore. You can still see the spot on the popular Earthquake Trail near the Bear Valley Visitor Center. California’s deep San Andreas Fault runs through the middle of Tomales Bay there, and some have claimed the giant peninsula actually moved as much as two feet, sideways to the west.

Interestingly, the 8.3 magnitude recorded in San Francisco was increased to 9.0 in Sebastopol, and 9.0 is the highest magnitude measured on the Richter scale. For comparison, the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake measured 7.1 magnitude.

Ultimately, the death toll in Northern California from what became known as the Great San Francisco Earthquake of 1906 rose to more than 750 people.

For what it's worth, that beautiful stained glass dome over the former Petaluma Library – now the Petaluma Historical Museum – has remained unbroken for the past 118 years.

Skip Sommer's book “Petaluma Past” is on display the first Friday of the month in the Argus-Courier. Sommer is an honorary life member of the Petaluma Historical Museum and Heritage Houses, and a 1987 Petaluma Good Egg House. You can reach him at [email protected].

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