It was the earthquake that killed 20 thousand people. Has Japan recovered?

On that day 10 years ago, the steep stone steps descended from the shrine, and I passed by a man trying to fill a bowl of a weak drop of water coming from a crack in the concrete wall. The steps ended with a flip-flop, twisted steel, and a section of roof and logs. The only way to bypass the block was to enter via the back of Saiko-ji Temple, and obviously I’m not the first person to take this route. The tatami floor of the temple was covered with a thick layer of mud that smelled of sea and oil, while a clear line on the walls showed that the height of the tide here was the height of Ali’s chin.

The temple’s sliding doors were open and my way through the bell tower, in which a car was leaning on one side but apparently undamaged. The remnants of what was shortly before people’s homes were scattered randomly into a wall constructed by the waves.

This was one of the working-class areas that developed over the centuries, with very little city planning. The homes were deceptive, some still with century-old sliding wood and paper doors, others with corrugated iron clad designs that are cheap and easy to build. Many of them have been home to several generations. There were corner stores and a neighborhood store selling beer and drinks. Almost certainly there were two small restaurants whose customers were all locals selling ramen or sushi. As a community, that was unnoticeable to anyone who hadn’t lived here.

After emerging from the wreck, I walked towards a group of people who had gathered a few hundred meters away, but I never reached them. The arm of what appeared to be an old man, still wearing a green jacket, was protruding from debris stuck to some concrete block. I found a wand, tied a piece of cloth to the top and jammed it into the mud to find the recovery bands.

It was difficult to see the human face of the tragedy. Different people dealt with what they saw in Tohoku in those days in different ways. I was fortunate to be relatively disconnected as it was happening – this was the only way I could have done and do my job – but it hit me hard once I got home in Yokohama after about 10 straight days reporting from Catastrophic Range. And every time I came back, it bothered me. Even now, I relive my flashbacks from March 2011. I will never forget this old man’s hand.

Nobu Higuchi assumed the position of High Priest of the Seiko-ji Temple when his father retired immediately after the disaster, and moved to another part of Japan. He believes it will take many years before a society can recover. “Everyone who has lived here feels, even today, that he was deprived of happiness and a normal life,” he says. Each of them asked himself at some point, “Why did this happen to me?”

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