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How The Times reported on the dangers of hair relaxers

How The Times reported on the dangers of hair relaxers

 


Like the scientists I profiled, Black women have been using chemical relaxers for generations, often since childhood, without knowing about the potential dangers. The products that transform frizzy hair into smooth ones have long been touted as safe. But the federal government, which has loose oversight of cosmetics, offers little guidance. While the Food and Drug Administration has banned or restricted just nine toxic chemicals used in cosmetics, the European Union regulates 1,300. (When I first saw this statistic, I thought it was a typo.)

I spent a year covering this case. It took so long that family and friends stopped asking, “What are you on about?” because I was determined to follow the science and carefully, thoughtfully piece together the evidence. I wanted to avoid unnecessary panic and to avoid Black women being blamed for using potentially harmful products they trust on themselves and their children.

As with all of my stories, I researched very extensively. For this story, I spoke to about 30 scientists, academics, lawyers, politicians, activists, and clinical trial subjects. I also interviewed two Black women who used relaxer products since childhood – one of them developed uterine cancer, the other breast cancer. They are involved in a lawsuit involving thousands of plaintiffs who are suing companies that make hair relaxers for failing to warn consumers of the risks.

The devil is often in the details. For me, that's the footnotes in scientific studies. With help from Shelby Borma, who did additional research for this article, I've compiled a database of dozens of studies, reports, and articles.

I first spoke with the scientists behind the Sister study, then interviewed Dr. Chandra M. Tiwary, a now-retired pediatric endocrinologist who, in the late 1990s, was horrified to discover that four of his patients under the age of 8 had developed pubic hair and breasts. He believed that hormone-containing hair products were linked to the early onset of puberty.

Sources

1/ https://Google.com/

2/ https://www.nytimes.com/2024/06/20/insider/a-shared-lived-experience-fueled-an-investigation-on-hair-relaxers.html

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