Fashion
Why Lagos Space Program is withdrawing from Paris Fashion Week
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Among the photos of the 2023 International Woolmark Prize winners was a joyous photo of Lagos Space Programs founder Adeju Thompson holding his trophy above his head, a moment of triumph for the Nigerian designer. Almost exactly a year later, Thompson finds himself at another turning point: he is pulling out of Paris Men's Fashion Week in June as part of a strategy overhaul.
The move highlights the challenges African designers face when trying to expand internationally. It's so difficult for Western designers [to build a sustainable and profitable business]. Now think how difficult that is for a designer from the continent, says Thompson, who was due to present his Spring/Summer 2025 collection on June 23 in Paris. He plans to return to the calendar in January 2025.
Being in Paris and appearing on the official calendar has always been a big dream of mine, says Thompson. However, for an emerging designer with limited cash flow, exhibiting in one of the major fashion capitals represents a huge expense, he points out. Thompson spent around €53,000 on his fall/winter 2024 presentation in January, but did not see a high enough return on investment.
He also points to the broader downturn in the luxury sector: “We operate as if fashion is the same as it was 20 years ago, but that’s not the case. The market, especially in Paris, is very competitive and has reached a saturation point; being a great designer is not enough. Relations with wholesale partners are becoming increasingly volatile, he adds; last year, a multi-brand retailer failed to collect an order worth 9,000. In order to generate cash, Thompson launched a microsite and now sells the collection there.
It was time for a reset. Pull [of Paris this season] This means we have money to use in other important aspects of the Lagos space program, which can really help us ensure we create a sustainable business, he says. This includes preparing the brand's direct-to-consumer e-commerce site, which will launch this summer, partly supported by Woolmark. This slowdown will also give it time to introduce more commercial pieces into its portfolio, such as T-shirts and jeans, on the advice of buyers and the press. He plans to return in January with a complete and more attractive collection for international buyers, he says.
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