Was German kebab diplomacy in Türkiye a failure? First position

German President Frank-Walter Steinmeier's recent visit to Turkey not only sparked diplomatic conversations, but also sparked discussions around a symbolic culinary exchange. With a 60-kilogram kebab skewer and the company of Arif Keles, owner of a Berlin kebab shop, Steinmeier aimed to highlight the fusion of cultures and the contributions of Turkish migrants to Germany.

While the visit was aimed at strengthening bilateral ties, Steinmeier's decision to include a kebab skewer dner and a kebab shop owner in his delegation became a topic of conversation in the city.

With bilateral relations between the two countries at an all-time low, Steinmeiers said in Istanbul that top diplomacy, during his first visit as head of state, aims to highlight the achievements of the 2.7 million of Germans with roots in Turkey.

On Wednesday, Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdogan laughed with Steinmeier when Erdogan jokingly asked him if there were any leftovers from the doner kebab that Steinmeier had sliced ​​in Istanbul.

“I guess all the doner kebab was consumed in Istanbul,” Erdogan told Steinmeier, who attempted to show off his skills earlier in the week by practicing cutting the iconic Turkish dish.

Videos of the German leader showing meat being cut on Keles' kebab skewer alongside Istanbul Mayor Ekrem Imamoglu have sparked accusations of orientalism on German and Turkish social media. Turkish-owned Doner kebab shops are quite common in Germany.

German President Steinmeier flies to meet Erdogan in Istanbul and brings with him Doner Kebab meat from Berlin.

According to him, it is a symbol of integration and friendship between Germany and Turkey. pic.twitter.com/L7UDNYgLa3

– Daily News Dispatch (@DailyDispatchIn) April 24, 2024

Steinmeier invites criticism

Some Turkish-Germans viewed Steinmeier's gesture as reductive, reducing their community to a stereotype.

Journalist Ozan Demircan and others criticized this choice, suggesting that highlighting the achievements of prominent figures of Turkish origin would have been more respectful and meaningful.

Demircan pointed to a large group of accomplished people that Steinmeier could have chosen to highlight, including BioNTech founders Uur ahin and zlem Treci, or director lker atak, nominated for an Oscar this year.

Millions of guest workers helped build Germany's Wirtschaftswunder, Demircan said on X, referring to the post-war economic miracle. And the German president is bringing a kebap maker to Turkey, he added.

A Turkish-German scientist has discovered the most effective COVID vaccine.
A Turkish-German filmmaker has been nominated for an Oscar.
Millions of guest workers helped build the German Wirtschaftswunder.

And the German president brings a kebap maker to Türkiye https://t.co/6IiMuF48El

– Ozan Demircan (@ozmuhabir) April 22, 2024

Tuncay Zdamar of the public broadcaster WDR criticized the choice to highlight the portable snack yesterday and made a cliché: If you visit Italy, you don't bring pizza, he said.

While the dispute risked overshadowing a celebration of 100 years of diplomatic relations, Jrg Lau, international correspondent for The weatherposted simply: CRINGE.

However, Kele, whose grandfather worked for years in a German factory before opening his own restaurant in 1986, said before the trip that he was proud to have Steinmeier take him to my ancestors, saying AFP it was a great honor.

Steinmeier hits back

At Wednesday's joint press conference, Steinmeier was asked whether the brouhaha over kebabs showed how superficial relations between Germany and Turkey had become.

“I don't think this is a sign of the superficiality of the relations, but rather a sign of the superficiality of the debate about this visit,” Steinmeier replied.

In any case, he said, he was grateful to have been accompanied by a diverse delegation: “Arif Keles' kebab is part of that diversity that helped shape the new Germany. »

President Steinmeier at the press conference: Germany maintains such intense, friendly and family relations with no other country in the world. pic.twitter.com/fIgN39HMqF

– GermanyBE (@GermanyBE) April 24, 2024

The visit took place against a backdrop of tense relations between Germany and Turkey, marked by disagreements on various issues, including the war in Gaza and democratic principles. Erdogan's support for Hamas and his perceived authoritarian measures have added to the tension between the two nations.

Despite the controversy, it was reported that doner kebab was also served at Erdogan's banquet for Steinmeier.

Steinmeier's delegation included families of guest workers, prominent Turkish-German businessmen and politicians.

Cultural significance of the kebab in Germany

Despite the controversy, the presence of kebabs in Germany is a testament to the country's multiculturalism. Introduced by Turkish migrants, the dinner kebab has become a staple of German cuisine, with annual sales estimated at 7 billion. Its popularity underlines the integration of Turkish culture into the German social fabric.

At the reception held in the Tarabya village garden, President Steinmeier wore an apron and served the guests with doner kebab brought from Germany, which attracted great attention. pic.twitter.com/1bN3fMOGoJ

– GermanyBE (@GermanyBE) April 22, 2024

Doner kebab, originally a popular Turkish dish, has become a global culinary sensation. Made from succulent lamb or beef, infused with a blend of spices and slow roasted on a vertical rotisserie, it is then delicately sliced ​​and served with pita bread, crunchy vegetables, aromatic rice and golden fries .

This gastronomic delight transcended borders over time, spreading across the expanse of the Ottoman Empire and beyond. As people traveled the world, they took the tradition of doner kebab with them, fostering its adoration in various cultures.

In Greece, it takes the name gyros, often nestled in warm pita bread with a refreshing tzatziki sauce. Meanwhile, in Germany it has adopted its identity as a much-loved street food, usually nestled in a bun alongside vibrant green salads and a range of mouth-watering sauces.

Today, the doner kebab constitutes a precious culinary treasure, delighting the palates of millions of people around the world.

German kebab diplomacy in Turkey has attracted both admiration and criticism, reflecting broader discussions about cultural representation, integration and diplomatic relations. While some see it as a significant gesture of inclusiveness, others see it as a missed opportunity to highlight the achievements of Turkish migrants in Germany.

With the contribution of agencies