Sports
The Tennis Walk-On look is the sport’s new style moment
“For fashion brands, fans are not just an audience, they are millions of people who are actively looking for ways to express who they are through what they wear in a highly emotional environment,” says Garriga. However, she notes that tennis may not yet have penetrated the wider fan culture, with specific fan merchandise few and far between and many of these athletes yet to become visible fashion ambassadors off the court. “The fashion moments, no matter how beautiful, usually remain on the field, leaving a potential new audience on the margins.”
The rise of walk-on looks demonstrates the ability to tell stories to an audience through the lens of fashion in tennis, a development that Morgan Riddle, co-founder of sports and culture agency The 400 Club, said was inevitable. “Many fans don’t just want to watch what’s happening on the field, they also want the story around it.” Jannik Sinner already caused a stir in 2023 when the Gucci ambassador carried a logo bag – violating Wimbledon’s dress code – on the court. It positioned the brand at the heart of Sinner’s rise to the number one spot, code violation aside. “Fashion obviously doesn’t replace sport, but it does become a new entry point,” Riddle adds.
For the tennis players themselves, the walk-on outfit can go beyond self-expression and brand extension. “A player’s career can last 15 years, but the cultural equality you build takes much longer,” says Roberto Cordero, a journalist and brand consultant who works in sports and culture. “With the walk-on you reach people who will never watch a fifth set.”
The integration of fashion into leading tennis tournaments appears not only to continue, but to deepen. Cordero touts the greater opportunity athletes now have to not only take control of their own sponsorship deals, but also to build their own business portfolios – Roger Federer dropped Nike for a stake in challenger brand On, while Serena Williams opened her own venture capital firm. “The direction is shifting from endorsement to equity. Signature lines, athletes with real creative roles and players launching their own labels,” says Cordero.
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