Fashion

Ann Demeulemeester could soon welcome a new owner, designer – WWD

Ann Demeulemeester will soon be welcoming a new design direction – and possibly a new owner.

Sources told WWD that Italian retailer Antonioli is in advanced talks to acquire the Antwerp-based fashion house.

Contacted Friday evening, Antonioli owner Claudio Antonioli said that an agreement had not yet been reached, but could arrive before the end of the summer.

He declined to comment on the design estate, but rejected suggestions that the famous founder, one of the six original Antwerp designers, could return to the brand.

Last week, Anne Chapelle, CEO of Ann Demeulemeester, released a brief statement to reveal the departure of creative director Sébastien Meunier, who took over after the founder left in 2013. He was the chief male designer of Demeulemeester since 2010, according to his LinkedIn profile.

Chapelle thanked Meunier “for his dedication and all that he has accomplished since his arrival 10 years ago”.

The version made no mention of other changes.

Asked about future collections and exhibitions – Demeulemeester is not on the official calendar for the next online version of Paris Men’s Fashion Week – a spokesperson for the house said: “Everything will continue, but we are focusing on January”.

A Belgian entrepreneur who has been managing director of Demeulemeester since 1994, Chapelle acquired an undisclosed interest in the company in 2005. She would be the reference shareholder.

Her fashion holdings also include a stake in Haider Ackermann, which she also sought to offload, other sources told WWD.

A pensive woman with Gothic tendencies, Demeulemeester helped put Antwerp on the world fashion map with her meticulous couture and dark glamor.

A graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, she founded her company in 1985 and produced her first collection for the autumn season 1987, adding shoes and accessories the following year.

She started showing in Paris in 1992 and quickly became a fashion star, with WWD anointing her “Queen Ann” in a title following a successful collection in 1995 that would influence runways in other capitals of the fashion. She added men’s clothing a year later.

Last year, Demeulemeester quietly entered the house category with Dishes with black or red brushstrokes which produced a “chiaroscuro” effect.

Claudio Antonioli founded his first retail outpost in Milan in 1987 and is co-founder of the streetwear conglomerate New Guards Group, recently acquired by Farfetch.

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