Fashion
That old thing? UK shoppers demand vintage clothes with a worn look | Vintage fashion
AAt the 99 Vintage store in downtown Winchester, rows of worn Dickies pants sit next to paint-splattered band T-shirts and a 1964 track and field hoodie with the left cuff falling off. “We call it the trashed look,” says Jack Edwards, 27, co-owner of the family business.
In the past, I would have rejected pieces because of a mark, but now you see the positives in some of the stains and wear. It helps tell the story of the piece.
His brother Harrison, 25, agrees. He explains that vintage items that are visibly damaged can sometimes even sell for higher prices: people are much more open to the experience they’ve had, and some clothes look better with rips or holes. It adds character.
According to GlobalData, the UK clothing resale market is expected to grow by 48.9% between 2023 and 2027, reaching €10.1 billion.
High-end brands are also trying to capitalize on the trend: Rimowa recently launched its revised programwho collects old, battered suitcases and sells them at reduced prices.
Other brands use it in their marketing: when Nike collaborated with New York artist Tom Sachs on its general purpose boring shoeHis ad featured a worn, scuffed sneaker. Canadian brand Norda also used worn shoes and a story about the travels they took on his social media accounts.
There is one big caveat, however: the stain or tear must be the RIGHT Stain or tear. A 90s sweatshirt with a little bleach stain makes it look better, said Harrison Edwards. Spaghetti bolognese on a white T-shirt? No way. And Harry Sims, owner of Hartex, a vintage sportswear shop on London’s South Bank, said: It’s not just a free pass to sell dirty clothes, but for some things it really shows them off. A white T-shirt covered in old paint? It adds to the beauty.
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Pascal Matthias, a professor of fashion at the University of Southampton, explains that the concept is driven by nostalgia. Clothes have a story and this encourages an emotional narrative. From the store to the designer, brands are trying to be more authentic.
Jackets and pants from Carhartt WIP, the Michigan-based workwear company that has transitioned from blue-collar uniforms to streetwear, can sell used for two or three times the recommended retail price if they've been worn or stained.
Matthias said it was also a sign of the times. Twenty years ago, we had the preppy style; today, we have the working-class hero.
Whatever the reason, for some vintage sellers it’s a blessing in disguise. Paul Woodcock, owner of the Really Groovy shop in Wadebridge, Cornwall, buys stock from the US, private individuals or the wardrobes of deceased people.
He's glad people aren't bothered by paint stains or rusty metal anymore, because it's getting harder to find quality vintage men's clothing. There's a lot more women's clothing in good condition, he said. [Women] They will pass things on rather than keep them forever, whereas men wear their old clothes to paint or repair the car.
Ultimately, the lesson for everyone, Edwards said, is not to throw things away. There is life to be had beyond a stain or a hole, if you get into the right mood. Don’t get me wrong: a ripped Primark T-shirt doesn’t have the same appeal, but we need to hold on to items for longer.
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Sources 2/ https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/article/2024/jul/21/this-old-thing-how-uk-customers-are-clamouring-for-trashed-look-vintage-clothing The mention sources can contact us to remove/changing this article |
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