Health
Coronavirus sees champagne producers suffer more than during the Great Depression
Producers in the French region of Champagne Orientale, the seat of the global industry, claim to have lost around 1.7 billion euros ($ 2.8 billion) in sales for this year, as turnover fell by a third of a hammer unmatched in living memory and worse than the Great Depression. .
Key points:
- Champagne producers say coronavirus presents more severe crisis than Great Depression
- Pressure on industry expected to last for years as world waits for vaccine
- While bars and nightclubs remain closed, vendors aim to market their products differently
They expect about 100 million bottles to languish unsold in their cellars by the end of the year.
For months, the lockdown shut down weddings, restaurants, parties and international travel, all key elements in selling the luxury French wine marketed for decades as a sparkling must at any celebration.
“We are going through a crisis that we believe is even worse than the Great Depression [of 1929]», Declares Thibaut Le Mailloux of the Champagne Committee, known by its French acronym CIVC, which represents some 16,000 winegrowers.
Recognizing the urgency of the problem, the CIVC launches unprecedented damage limitation measures.
Like oil-producing countries, the committee regulates the size of the crop each year to avoid the kind of excess production that would push bottle prices down.
At a meeting scheduled for August 18, there are plans to impose a cap so tight that record quantities of grapes will be destroyed or sold to distilleries at reduced prices.
This prospect worries small producers, who are more vulnerable than the big houses.
Anselme Selosse, of Champagnes Jacques Selosse, called “an insult to nature” that the famous champagne grapes are even intended to produce alcohol for hand sanitizer, as happens in other wine regions such as Alsace after strong demand during the pandemic.
“We have to destroy (the grapes) and we are paying for them to be destroyed,” Mr Selosse said, referring to the industry as a whole. “It is nothing but a disaster.”
“Champagne has never experienced such a situation before, even during the world wars”, added Mr. Selosse.
The crisis is expected to last for years
Large producers such as Vranken-Pommery predict that the crisis could last for years.
“We must not forget that [champagne] has lived through all wars, ”said Paul-François Vranken, founder of Vranken-Pommery Monopole.
Vranken said the very essence of marketing champagne as a drink consumed at parties and weddings needs to be re-evaluated to reflect the new normal: less festivities and a lack of celebratory group events.
The new branding strategy for him and other champagne companies will seek to highlight the status of wine as a quality drink produced naturally and often organically in a historic French region.
“Even though the bars and nightclubs are closed for five years, we don’t expect to miss customers. There will be a very big change in our marketing that highlights the greatness of our wines, ”said Mr. Vranken.
Mr Selosse, who produces many “natural” champagnes with no added sugar, also hopes the pandemic will encourage thinking about the future marketing of champagne and the restructuring of the multibillion-dollar industry.
He would like to see a more cooperative side of production, such as “communal wine presses” to help pool costs for small producers.
Mr. Selosse said adaptability has served champagne well in the past, helping it evolve from a 19th century dessert wine to a modern dry version called “brut”.
He even thinks but it is a minority opinion among producers that the industry could move away from the hustle and bustle and be able to produce all kinds of wines, as it did in the past: red, white or still.
AP
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