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Turkey sees wine boom, despite government restrictions and tax hikes

Turkey sees wine boom, despite government restrictions and tax hikes

 


In Turkey, hundreds of new producers are growing the country's wine industry and its international reputation, despite increasing taxes and controls by President Erdogan's religious and conservative government.

Grapes have been cultivated for centuries in Manisa, western Turkey. It was here that Fulya Akinci and her Spanish husband, José Hernandez Gonzalez, decided to participate in the transformation of the country's wine industry.

“In 2005, in 2006, maybe when you went to a restaurant, you ordered red wine or white wine, that was it,” Akinci says. “Over the last 15 years there has been a real boom. We have so many, let's say, boutique vineyards. Today, with these small vineyards, the quality has changed a lot.”

With their wine label HeraklionAkinci and Hernandez Gonzalez are part of this wave of new small producers, a group that now numbers about 200 people, up from just a handful a decade ago. The couple trained at a wine school in Bordeaux and worked in vineyards around the world. Hernandez Gonzalez said it was Turkey's untapped potential that persuaded him and Akinci to produce their own wine there.

“As a foreigner, when I arrived in Türkiye, I was really surprised by the biodiversity of the different grape varieties,” he said. “It’s a country with many different grape varieties. [there was] the potential of soils and climate. We have mountains, we have coasts and many different climates to make grapes. And the potential of these grapes for making wine is enormous. »

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Government restrictions

Hernandez Gonzales explained that instead of producing wine from vines used around the world, they decided to use native grapes. “One of our main ideas here in Heraki was to produce wines from these local grapes.”

In five years, their production increased from a few thousand to 20,000 bottles. But the couple say it has been an uphill struggle. “We have some difficulties because of bureaucracy, paperwork and tax pressures… so huge pressures on us. It's not easy at all,” Akinci explained.

Erdogan's Justice and Development (AK) Party, which enjoys wide support among Muslims, has, since coming to power in 2002, increased taxes on alcohol to 65 percent, among highest in the world. There are also increasing restrictions on the production, sale and advertising of wine. “We love making wine, but it's not easy at all. It's difficult, and every day it gets worse and worse,” Akinci said.

Turkish broadcasting authoritiesprohibited images of alcohol on televisionin 2013, and in much of the country, it is difficult to obtain alcohol licenses.

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But in the meantime, government advertisements promoting Turkey as a tourist destination abroad often highlight the country's wines as an attraction. With much of the wine industry based in tourist centers, experts say tourists help drive demand and increase the reputation of Turkish wines.

International interest

“Wine producers have started to get better prices for their wines. They can now make money, against all odds. There is international interest,” said wine consultant Sabiha Apaydn Gonenli. Through its Kok Koken Toprak Conference (Root Soil Wine Conference) international symposia, it promotes the Turkish wine industry internationally.

However, she cautions that the industry still has a long way to go. “It's not economically viable at the moment because it's very small. To market this, you need support. We can't do it alone, wine producers need to come together.”

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As for Heraki wines, they are now stocked in a large European restaurant and have found a German distributor. But despite these successes, Akinci says winemaking in Türkiye remains a bittersweet experience.

“One day we're so happy making wine here and we're thinking about increasing the volume and doing something else. Then another day we're thinking about closing our doors and moving to Spain.”

Sources

1/ https://Google.com/

2/ https://www.rfi.fr/en/podcasts/international-report/20241123-turkey-witnesses-wine-boom-despite-government-restrictions-and-tax-hikes

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