Fashion
Has the Internet made fashion self-conscious?
Self-awareness is an interesting way to say it, because I tend to think more about attention, said critic Rachel Tashjian, a fashion editor at The Washington Poston the phone earlier this week. She first referred to Rosebery as a meme-maker in a previous column about her work. Tashjian also pointed out that during these peripheral fashion weeks, it’s become common for designers to seek attention with their shows, something we’ve come to accept and now see clearly. “I wonder if it’s made designers a little self-conscious about doing it,” she continued, “because now so many people think about it that it’s obvious that a designer or brand has decided to put on a show to create some kind of viral moment or become some kind of social media personality.
But this isn’t just true for designers and brands. I’ve noticed that some of my influencer friends have started to become more self-deprecating, either in terms of their own often-sponsored content or by splitting personas between Instagram (manicured, curated) and TikTok (improvised, playful). When I asked one of them about this, they responded that, perhaps counterintuitively, making fun of themselves somehow validates the sponsorship and the seriousness of the influencer. It’s as if knowing that it can be or seem ridiculous makes it less ridiculous, they said. Being in on the joke keeps them from becoming so.
The rise of lo-fi TikTok-style content has made Instagram feel a little overrated, which is why I see less and less of my friends posting there or I see them posting in the most unpolished ways possible (ever heard of a photo dump?). But now we're in on the TikTok thing, too. We know that street-fitness checks come with tons of photoshoots, and that makes them cringe—unless you're okay with it.
“There’s always too much of a good thing, and in fashion we tend to get so saturated with something that our only option is to run in the opposite direction. In fashion, we tend to think that the internet is big, so it’s bad,” Tashjian said. “When I came up with the idea for the title, I thought Daniel Roseberry’s clothes were more in dialogue with the internet or internet culture than they were cynically exploiting the way the internet works. That doesn’t make them good or bad, they’re just in tune with the moment, which is what makes good fashion. And the moment changes, so designers evolve.”
The glory should be in the clothes, Roseberry concluded to reporters backstage at his show. No different than what Becoming Karl Lagerfeld imagine Berg preaching to a group of budding designers. And the pendulum swings again.
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