Stella McCartney RTW Fall 2020 – WWD

Last season, Stella McCartney celebrated her love of animals with screenings of different couples in full copulation. This season, she took a less intrusive approach, enlisting a multitude of costumed characters – rabbit, cow, fox – to greet her guests on arrival and offer everyone the gift of a young tree to take home and to plant. (Many of those returning home have refused this nice gesture; questions about coronaviruses can be a sufficient barrier to customs.)

On the track, McCartney said goodbye to cute, at least until the finale, when the animals reappeared. Until then, the collection was inspired, according to its program notes, "by strong women who are grounded in reality with a free spirit. These are the intrepid, the pioneers, the disruptors, the visionaries – ready to express themselves and make a statement, in fashion or otherwise. You could call this season's fashion statement chic chic because it filled its range with ample proportions, intense details and very interesting surface treatments. These included big shaggy knits and faux shearling, lattice overlays for the evening, perforated vegan leather (yes, it is PVC-free), demonstrative lumberjack plaids and prints made in collaboration with the Erté archives. Notes from McCartney's show indicate that she met the famous fashion-loving artist when she was a child. The prints she used had a typically decorative feel, and you could see a twist of the twenties in a range of pretty dresses, some with frills vertical frills. Or maybe it was the power of suggestion, as McCartney beautifully adapted the patterns to his aesthetic.

This aesthetic typically manifests itself in a dialogue between the feminine and the masculine, the latter being expressed here by a strong seam. A formidable gray pantsuit with a one-button jacket had a flexible appeal, while coats with deep funnel collars projected a non-specific military vibe. This look has crossed men's clothing, as have bold daring tiles. Also for women and men: large, flat gold and silver animal brooches, a charming and witty expression of McCartney's animal-loving ethics.

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