Fashion

Style guru takes charity shop fashion to the next level

Amid a second-hand clothing boom, designer Wayne Hemingway talks David Bowie, retirement chic and his latest initiative to expand on pre-loved fashion.

Second-hand fashion is booming in a context of rising costs of living and the rise of ecological thinking. Once niche, the second-hand market is now on track to account for 10% of global sales, while eBay has just removed fees for second-hand clothing sellers.

In our Second Nature series, we unpack this growing trend and meet the pre-loved pioneers who are helping to make it mainstream. A million miles from its austere, moth-eaten reputation of yesteryear, they consider the pre-loved to be stylish, expressive and fun. First up, designer Wayne Hemingway, who plans to take charitable fashion to the next level.

Wayne Hemingway

I was running through Haight-Ashbury in San Francisco, and these pants were on a mannequin in the window. They gave me a treat, so I put them in a bag and continued running with them under my arm, Wayne Hemingway said.

Running is a surprisingly important theme in creators' second-hand stories. He wears (pictured below) his gray 1940s sanforized cotton trousers with a pair of commando-soled Grenson brogues, chosen not only because they resemble the style in which he would dance at the Wigan casino, but because that they are comfortable enough for running. (he's literally a marathon runner) in meetings.

Hemingway wore the kind of outfit he described as boarding house chic. Image: Will Sanders

Hemingway started buying second-hand in the 1970s, when the priority was style over durability. The coolest kids were second hand here, remember. When David Bowie came to King Georges Hall in Blackburn and wanted to look like him… you did it yourself, and that normally meant tailoring second-hand clothes (usually army surplus) and tinkering with machines. sew, ask your mother to show you how to do this and that, he said.

His ability to see potential in the unexpected defines his second-hand style. He used to call his 60s short-sleeved, collared shirts, paired here with a now 60-year-old Harrods cardigan, a chic pension in his days as a fashion expert on the Big Breakfast, as they were a staple of older men on the bowling greens. .

It's great fun but, Hemingway said, it's not frivolous. [Style] is a truly positive form of self-expression, well-being, open conversation. All the things that are important to being a human being.

It was the power of style and expression and the informal but comprehensive fashion education provided by second-hand clothing that motivated him and his business partner and wife, Gerardine, to sell vintage on the Camden market and launch the iconic British brand Red or Dead.

Did you want to look like David Bowie? You did it yourself. That meant tailoring second-hand clothes, fiddling with sewing machines

And it's the power of style and expression that he knows helps bring people through the door of Charity Super.Mkt, a newer venture launched with Maria Chenoweth, CEO of Traid. It brings together several charity retailers, in the style of department stores, in locations such as London's BrentCross and Bond Street, as well as cities such as Reading, Salford and Edinburgh, to increase the appeal of second-hand shopping and highlight money in the pockets of charities.

There is a beautiful story in[secondhand clothes] But the added bonus is that today, we also have the cachet of being sustainable, he says. It is a consumer declaration.

Main image: Will Sanders

Facts:

1.6

Charity Super.Mkt has so far raised almost $1.6 million for charity through the sale of more than 180,000 items, saving 53 tonnes of clothing from landfills.
228
m

Fashion charity Traid, which partnered with Hemingway on Charity Super.Mkt, has to date recommissioned 228 million garments, saving 622,059 tonnes of CO2 and 105.3 million m3 of water.

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