After years of struggling for greater recognition, Mexico's indigenous weavers have seen their creations thrust into the spotlight by the two women leading the country's presidential race.
The brightly colored, ornately embroidered clothing, handcrafted by generations of artisans, has long enchanted visitors to Mexico, including international designers whose use of these designs has sparked accusations of plagiarism.
Now, a lover of indigenous designs is almost certain to become Mexico's first female president, although the emphasis on traditional clothing on the campaign trail has generated mixed feelings among its designers.
“It’s important that they don’t just wear them as a costume or to attract attention,” said Trinidad Gonzalez, 55, a weaver from the community of El Mejay, in central Hidalgo state. from Mexico.
Opposition candidate Xochitl Galvez, an outspoken businesswoman and senator of indigenous descent, has worn traditional clothing since entering politics more than two decades ago.
Claudia Sheinbaum, the former mayor of Mexico City who represents the ruling party and is leading the electoral race, also wore indigenous clothing during her campaign, including at its launch.
“It is very positive that Mexican textiles occupy a central place in the political arena,” said anthropologist Marta Turok.
But according to Andres Vidal, doctor in social anthropology at the National Autonomous University of Mexico, the choice of clothing is also part of the “electoral game”.
– From racism to prestige –
Martina Cruz, Gonzalez's mother, is 83 years old, but she still weaves using techniques passed down through generations.
She is happy to see the traditional clothing worn by presidential candidates, including Galvez, also from Hidalgo.
“I really like it,” Cruz said, as he wove a garment that can take up to eight months to complete and sells for the equivalent of $1,000.
Painter Frida Kahlo was the first internationally renowned Mexican figure to wear indigenous clothing, said Turok, the folk art expert.
In politics, the pioneer was Maria Esther Zuno, wife of Luis Echeverria, president from 1970 to 1976.
“Mexican politics is a reflection of society,” Turok said.
At one time, politicians “were ashamed” to wear Indigenous clothing, a reluctance that reflected the broader problem of “discrimination and racism”, she recalls.
But little by little, indigenous creations gained popularity and prestige. Today, they can be worth thousands of dollars.
– Cultural appropriation? –
As senator, Galvez promoted the adoption of Huipil Day, celebrated on March 7 in recognition of the traditional embroidered blouse.
“Never haggle over the price of a huipil with an indigenous woman,” the politician said in one of her videos, in which she showed off her traditional blouses, some made of silk, which Turok said cost up to 5,000 dollars.
Sheinbaum, the granddaughter of Bulgarian and Lithuanian Jewish migrants, also has a collection of indigenous clothing that was given to her on tour, according to a source in her campaign.
While several major foreign clothing brands have been accused by Mexico of cultural appropriation of their indigenous-inspired designs, Turok said she does not view the contestants' use of the huipil in the same light.
“Inappropriate cultural appropriation is taking a textile to another country to reproduce it,” she said.
“If we start saying who can and cannot wear them, it will be a never-ending story,” Turok added.
Vidal sees wearing indigenous clothing as a way for politicians to connect with voters.
“One way to achieve them is to create a symbiosis through the use of a certain type of clothing,” he said.
The election fashion show attracted new customers to Alfonso Giron's store in Mexico City.
“They say, 'Hey, I'm looking for the item of clothing that I saw the candidate wearing on TV,'” he said.
But in reality, each huipil is unique, adds Giron.
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