Politics
A biryani chicken recipe that brings people together
In A good meal, we ask creative food enthusiasts to share the story behind a favorite dish that they prepare and eat regularly at home and not only when they try to impress.
At the end of last year, a demonstration broke out in Shaheen Bagh Square in New Delhi. It was a challenge to the Citizen Amendment Act passed by the government of Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi, which made religion a criterion for obtaining citizenship, allowing Hindus and Christians and Sikhs and Buddhists alike not Muslims to follow the path. The early days of the demonstration mixed the democratic spirit of Tahrir Square with the encampment culture of Occupy Wall Street. The demonstrators who stayed for some time had to eat. And what they ate was biryani, a quintessential Indian rice and meat dish. It is truly a symbol of syncretic culture, as a version of it was brought in by Muslim leaders, says New York Times writer and contributor Aatish Taseer, 39, who grew up in Delhi and found that the protests made him see the dish in a new way. I suddenly felt very protective of this thing that I associate with the kind of India that I love.
Taseer, who hosted the recent two-part documentary by Al Jazeera In search of the soul of India, has been eating biryani for a long time before being an internationally recognized voice in India, the author of three novels and two non-fiction books (plus a translation from Urdu to English). His family's home cook prepared it for him when Taseer was a child. Of all the things he would do, biryani was one of my favorites, says Taseer. When I was 18 and on my way to college in Amherst, I thought I could do without almost everything else except that. So I asked him to teach me.
Taseer still has the notebook with the original recipe, inked in his teenage scribble. He referred to it over the years when he needed a cooking show; biryani is not something that is thrown together in 20 minutes after work on a Wednesday. It is a patient dish, a potpourri flavored with ginger, turmeric and cinnamon that has long been associated with the festivities until it recently became a political symbol. If you cook it too fast, it can get out of hand before you even know it, says Taseer. he tends to heal him for three hours with a tequila cocktail in hand and the classic WQXR station on the radio. With biryani, in its purest or finest version, it sometimes cooks overnight over very low heat. What I really recommend is to slow things down.
Aatishs Chicken Biryani
Ingredients:
1. Add ghee to a large saucepan or Dutch oven and coat the bottom. Over medium heat, add the onions, garlic and ginger. Stir. Then add the cloves, black cardamom, cinnamon and bay leaf. Stir again. Cook until fragrant, less than a minute.
2. Once the onions are golden, add the red pepper, turmeric and salt. Cook until it is mixed. Add the chicken and cook for about 10 minutes, until it loses its raw color. Add the pure tomato, immediately followed by garam masala and biryani powder. Simmer for an additional 10 minutes over low heat.
3. Add the rice, increase the heat to medium-high and cook for 10 minutes, covered. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook uncovered until the water has evaporated and the rice is cooked through, but not sticky or sticky, about 10 minutes. Leave to stand for 5 to 10 minutes. Serve with plain Greek yogurt, mango pickles and a glass of rosé.
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