Meet the Black Women Activists Revolutionizing Diversity in Fashion – Essence

In the evolving fashion world, black designers are on the rise.

When Issa Rae hosted the CFDA Fashion Awards — the first black woman to do so — she caused a stir on the red carpet a custom Pyer Moss wetsuit designed by Haitian-American fashion designer Kerby Jean-Raymond. In Zendaya's evolution from Disney starlet to leading actress, Law Roach selected several ensembles from Brooklyn-born designer Romeo Hunte's first collection for a week-long press tour.

When Beyoncé was spotted wearing a white Telfar shopping bag At a lunch in Brooklyn, Twitter exploded, as did global hype for the Liberian-American designer's famous “Bushwick Birkin” bag. Beyoncé also promoted the bag on her Instagram account. Renaissance album, declaring, “That Telfar bag was imported. Birkins? That sh** is in storage,” in a pop culture moment that cements the iconography Sex and the City The era of Sarah Jessica Parker and Manolo Blahnik. Fashion brands like Hanifa, Lemlem, and LaQuan Smith, among others, are making waves while bridging the gap between aspiration and accessibility.

While the right runway placements can transform designers into global sensations overnight, achieving the level of visibility needed to be on the runways and in the halls of the biggest celebrities has long been elusive. It took decades of behind-the-scenes advocacy and persistence to pave the way for today’s Black designers. Trailblazers like model and activist Bethann Hardison have fought tirelessly to break down barriers and advocate for systemic reform in an industry historically resistant to “outsiders.”

Despite progress, significant barriers to entry and advancement remain. According to a Drapers survey, 50.8% of fashion professionals believe the industry is not addressing diversity, equity and inclusion issues quickly enough. Additionally, 41.3% of respondents believe minorities face greater challenges breaking into the fashion industry, while 38.1% say minorities face greater challenges advancing in the industry. These findings highlight the structural barriers that professionals of color continue to face in fashion.

Effectively addressing these systemic issues requires a multi-pronged approach. As part of this ongoing effort, Aurore Jamesfounder of a high-end lifestyle and accessories brand Vellies Brothersand pioneer journalist Lindsay Peoples Wagnereditor in chief at The cuphave become key players. They are driving significant change and setting new standards for better representation in the fashion industry.

Aurora James and the 15% Commitment: From Awareness to Accountability

With her Fifteen percent commitmentJames has made significant progress on diversity and inclusion, securing commitments from major retailers like Bloomingdale's, Nordstrom, Sephora and Macy's to allocate 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses.

Launched in 2020, the campaign came at a time when systemic racism and structural inequality were being increasingly reckoned with. James remembers the moment as lightning in a bottle. “Everyone was feeling emotions at that moment, but we didn’t really know what to do with them,” she said. Anger, when directed strategically, can be a powerful force for change, but intense emotions often overshadow reason and logic.

As conversations about the impact of systemic racism and corporate social responsibility grew around the killing of George Floyd, James put a plan in place. “Big companies can’t track progress, they won’t. We needed to build a set of KPIs around what had largely existed as sentiment,” she said. “For me, this commitment was a great place to start.”

With 29 committed companies and over 600 Black-owned brands on the shelves, Fifteen percent commitment redirected $14 billion in revenue to Black-owned businesses.

The Black Fashion Council: Lindsay Peoples Wagner's Action Plan for Equity

In groundbreaking roles as editor-in-chief of Teen Vogue, including the youngest ever published by Cond Nast and currently on The Cut, Peoples Wagner uses his journalistic platforms to shine a light on diverse experiences. His viral and widely acclaimed article, “Everywhere and Nowhere: What It's Really Like to Be Black and Work in Fashion”, illustrates this commitment.

Despite her influence and credibility, or perhaps because of it, she faced a common challenge among activists. “There’s a lot of shifting of responsibility, especially in our industry,” she said. “I always felt like I was too young, that I didn’t have the resources or the access that other people had.” When she was tempted to shift her responsibility, she resisted and began with small, impactful actions: “I started just by hosting events for Black women in my apartment, trying to make a difference and be of service in my own way.”

What started as living room meetings became a movement when she decided to take greater action: “When you have a platform and resources, you have to use them to actually help people.” Sandrine Charles, public relations professionalPeoples Wagner founded the Blacks in Fashion Council (BIFC) to address the systemic disparities it had encountered in the fashion industry. Since its inception in 2020, the council has developed crucial frameworks, produced an annual report on Black representation in the industry, and strengthened support and visibility for emerging black creators.

In partnership with the Human Rights Campaign, BIFC inaugural report reveals that 22% of companies with a board of directors are committed to including black representation. Nearly 100 companies have committed to increasing the percentage of black employees at management and junior-level positions. Additionally, approximately 20% of these companies implement formal professional development programs specifically aimed at underrepresented minorities.

The DEI Pendulum

As DEI initiatives face a nationwide backlash, with setbacks in higher education and across various sectors of corporate America, James And Wagner Peoples remain true to their vision of advancing equity in the fashion industry.

On the changing tolerance for such investments, James offers a balanced perspective“Some of our donors remain very engaged and are looking at how they can do more. At a time when a lot of people are focused on rollbacks and we all see the press talking about the decline of DEI, we’ve given out almost half a million dollars in grants over the last few years, which is pretty extraordinary. But separately, a lot of companies are just deciding not to do anything and I think consumer interest is also waning,” she shared.

Peoples Wagner also felt the change: “There are these pendulum movements where it feels likeWhy do we constantly have to remind people that diversity should matter? “It’s tiring and disappointing that we’re still struggling to have these conversations, but I also think we’re somewhat prepared for this moment,” she said. “We’re equipped and uniquely positioned to address these issues to improve the industry. Finding that common ground, I think, is just part of the journey.”

Aurora James and Lindsay Peoples Wagner are the cultural change agents the fashion industry needs. Thanks to the Fifteen Percent Pledge and the Advice on black in fashionrespectively, their unwavering commitment underscores the vital importance of continuing the fight for diversity and inclusion.