Everything to Know from Copenhagen Fashion Week Fall 2022

Holzweiler’s head of design, Maria Skappel Holzweiler, didn’t just have some fun ideas for the fall 2022 collection—she had an entire vision. The brand presented the gender-agnostic collection as a short film that stars young Nordic talent as they embark on a fictional road trip from Oslo to a cabin on the mountain Norefjell.

“Sometimes clothes require the right context, and sometimes great clothes require a real backdrop,” Holzweiler said. “That is what we have given this collection, something real.”

The result? Imaginative, well-tailored layers (think: a quilted leather puffer vest buried underneath a suede camel coat; a recycled deadstock knit dress paired with a chunky logo scarf and Moon Boots) that evoke Nanook at his most fashionable. The entire collection feels less traditionally après-ski and more alternative snow bunny.

By Malene Birger’s creative director, Maja Dixdotter, knows why we’re all here: The brand’s smart take on contemporary minimalism always manages to excite even the maximalists among us. For fall 2022, that meant tactile nubby knits in creams and beiges, flowing resort-ready dresses, and textbook hygge separates that were the unequivocal stars. In shorts, it was everything you’d want to wear in a Scandi utopia.

The runway’s “serpentine path” was meant to evoke the duality of fluid movement on a winding path, piquing our interest for what’s to come.

Always a front-runner for the week’s most joyful show, Ganni presented its fall 2022 collection via a live concert by Danish performer Jada. (The brand’s spring 2020 show, the last pre-pandemic live runway, ended with a rainy dance party led by Copenhagen pop star MØ.) This season, Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup were inspired by early-’90s indie music—think: Björk and PJ Harvey—which came through in the form of glitzy separates, feminine accoutrements like drawstrings and bows, and snakeskin suiting.

While much of it was meant to evoke the carefree spirit of the quintessential MTV video girl, there were plenty of practical options too. If nothing else, the Ganni girl still knows how to have fun.

Fashion has long been enthralled by the idea of ​​otherworldly travel, but it hasn’t always come across as literal as it did for Henrik Vibskov’s fall 2022 runway show, titled Biblioteca of Micro Selves. An examination of uncertainty in the future, the collection and set toyed with lunar elements and, later, juxtaposed utility with protection in the form of life vests secured at the waist and balaclavas meant to offer warmth and preservation.

And just when you thought there were no new silhouettes to be made, Vibskov swapped Moon Boots—a major trend for the upcoming season—for moon shoes, which laced up and secured at the ankle. Layers of plaid wool cocoons offset bright, slinky pleats and the occasional tailored suit to round out the futuristic, collection.

In keeping with the recent obsession with space travel and frigid temperatures, Baum und Pferdgarten opened its fall 2022 show—which it presented in front of a looming winter moon—with the sounds of footsteps trudging through frozen snow.

Designers Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave called the Pursuing Polaris collection, marked with quilted puff-collar coats, knit balaclavas, and tweed skirt suits that evoked none of the traditional working girl vibes. Sure, there were ski-appropriate separates like striped Americana knits, glossy metallic puffers, muddy base layers, and padded pants, but this showing seemed less made for the slopes and more appropriate for a festive party at the chalet.

As a nod to CPHFW’s commitment to sustainability, Fassbender showed its fall 2022 collection in the Zalando Greenhouse, a move that recognized the importance of responsibility within the industry, which it matched from the inside out. The brand also created fabrics out of raw materials like cactus—a newly minted alternative to leather—sugarcane leather, and recycled wool, and experimented with technology like 3D printing to offset traditional production expenditures.

While the collection began with a nod to traditional Scandi dressing with a palette of black and white along a smoky runway, it eventually gave way to layers of bright reds and electric greens in the form of a cowl-neck gown, an oversized cable-knit sweater, and a slinky pleated dress topped with a belted camel jacket.

Filippa K is known for masterfully fusing traditional Scandinavian minimalism with punchy, rich colors and textures—and the brand’s Fall 2022 collection was no different. The final season before Liisa Kessler takes the helm as creative director, the brand showed a faithful mix of monochromatic separates that celebrate Nordic winters, like a ski-ready puffer that was styled with a crop top and shorts, or quilted, forest green pants that could be appropriate for the slopes if it weren’t for the chic knee-high side-slit. A faux fur vest, which the brand paired with sequined trousers and leather gloves, was an unexpected highlight that hinted at more eveningwear in the brand’s future.

Of course, there were certain looks—like a buttery black leather blazer and pant set, or a slouchy V-neck sweater—that felt less imaginative and more like, well, more of the same—but we’re quickly reminded that it’s all in the execution. There’s a reason why Filippa K is quickly becoming a household name: No matter how you spin in, it’s all so easy to wear.

Catherine Saks and Barbara Potts are no strangers to a good time. The designers are never ones to shy away from a theme, either—and for Fall 2022, it’s clear that Saks Potts girl is ready to go out again. The brand presented its show at Copenhagen’s modern opera house, a prestigious backdrop for its color-blocked tanks, floor-length snakeskin jackets, and trousers with asymmetrical cut-outs and piping at the hip. Still, there were options for the museum-goer, too: A slouchy gray-marbled turtleneck was belted at the was it and pair with a midi skirt in a similarly muddy hue; a rose-embellished top was offset with a low-slung rainbow belt.

While the tame leather toppers were a far cry from the feathered outerwear that put the brand on the map, it’s clear that Saks Potts knows what it’s doing: reacclimating us to the outside world without forcing it. We’re not ready for all the glamor just yet.