Fashion

Unpublished photos of Jean-Michel Basquiat in Issey Miyake in the 80s

In the early 1980s, the painter Jean-Michel Basquiat was on the way to becoming the renowned artist we know today. His growing success led him to exhibit at the Whitney Museums 1983 Biennial Exhibition alongside contemporaries such as Keith Haring, Jenny Holzer, Cindy Sherman, etc. That same year, he moved into an apartment owned by Andy Warhol. The couple met a year ago and their friendship quickly blossomed by attending events and galleries, as well as working together. Meanwhile, Basquiat took a still largely unknown short trip to Tokyo where he was filmed head to toe in 80s Issey Miyake by Japanese photographer Yutaka Sakano. Today, these never-before-seen portraits have surfaced and are on display for the first time atPatrick Gutknecht Gallery in Paris until January 19, 2019.

It was a photo shoot with the Miyake men’s line for a men’s fashion magazine called dance, Sakano reflected. The session was shot in a rental photographic studio in July 1983 called Studio Azabu in Tokyo. For three hours, Sakano shot Basquiat in four looks in front of a hand-painted backdrop, despite none of them speaking the same language. In the results, the essence of Basquiat as a painter shines through as he moves and molds his body into the same geometric shapes found in his neo-expressionist paintings. In 1982, Basquiat caused a sensation in New York, he exhibited great works of art. These photos were taken the first time he came to Japan, when he was preparing for his first solo exhibition here. I think he was at his golden age in 1983.

I think (Basquiat) was in his golden age in 1983 Yutaka Sakano

The most incredible thing about this renegade Issey Miyake shoot is how the duo communicated without language, proving just how powerful the relationship between photographer and subject can cross worlds. Basquiat played with every object that was in the studio, as seen with the painting, Sakano explains. He was comfortable playing the game, very enthusiastic. He was a sincere person, very nice. He could move, which was great for me as a photographer. He was very comfortable posing in a very natural way, I had nothing to say. We spoke mostly with gestures.

Over the next five years, Basquiat returned to Japan for another exhibition in 1985 and continued to work until his death in 1988. In a contemporary internet world of oversharing, the fact that unknown images of Basquiat still remake surface thirty years later testifies to the powerful and lasting presence of artists in modern art.

Jean-Michel Basquiat – Tokyo 1983. Photographs by Yutaka Sakano is on view at Galerie Patrick Gutknecht until January 19, 2019. Find out morehere

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