Fashion
Ballerinas for men, bordering on audacity
Like the dramatic episodes of “The Dance of the Knights”, from the novel by Sergei Prokofiev Romeo and Juliet (1935), young models walked forward with expressionless faces. On this January afternoon, for the Dior Homme fall-winter 2024-2025 show, they donned striped double-breasted coats, wool mini-shorts with long zipped flies, sophisticated turbans and brocade and canvas capes. Joy. On their feet, ballerinas, in leather or quilted satin, with or without crossed elastic on the front. “We reworked the ballerina in a more masculine way, in homage to Rudolf Nureyev, who crossed my personal history since my uncle Colin Jones, also a dancer, was his friend and photographed him,” said Kim Jones, general director of the French fashion house. artistic director for men.
Men in ballerinas? It's the latest fad for many fashion brands, from Balenciaga to Thom Browne, from MM6 Maison Margiela to Dries Van Noten and Bode, who have made it their signature. In France, Lemaire, which offered a model of black Nappa leather ballerinas with a buckle strap for spring-summer 2023, saw fit to renew its production for spring-summer 2024.
Derived from the heeled ball shoes of the Ancien Régime (from the end of the Middle Ages to the French Revolution), pointe shoes appeared in the West at the beginning of the 19th century.th century, first on the feet of the dancers, allowing them to raise themselves to extend the body to the extreme. It is a technique “historically linked to the representation, at the Paris Opera, of Marie Taglioni in The sylph in 1832″, specifies researcher Mlodie Le Lay in the catalog of Walk and gait. A history of shoes (“Walk and Approach: A History of Shoes”), exhibition organized at the Museum of Decorative Arts in 2019.
“A niche offer”
However, by the middle of the 20th century, this stage shoe made its entry into the city. In the United States, Capezio made refined pairs for designer Claire McCardell, while in France, Rose Repetto opened a workshop in October 1947 to supply the Paris Opera. The legend would perhaps have recalled the ballerina Cinderella, designed for Brigitte Bardot in 1953 and seen in the film by Roger Vadim. And God… Cra the Woman (1956, …And God created the woman). But “the very first Repetto ballerina was created for a man, the son of the founder, the star dancer Roland Petit,” specifies the brand. “She designed him an extremely flexible shoe, which followed the movements of his aching feet, using the 'sew-and-turn' technique”, i.e. a seam sewn on the wrong side before being put back on the right side.
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