A family run Italian design house that has become a cultural dynasty | Instant news

In America, where manufacturing goes beyond handicrafts, children are often taught that success means escaping from family business for law, medicine, or Wall Street. But for the Italian clan at the top of fashion and design, this thinking is confusing: Why do you run away from the family company when you can create beautiful things? Although some respected Italian businessmen have been assimilated by emperors of luxury in the past few decades, an unusual variety variety – including major fashion houses Giorgio Armani, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Canali, Etro, and Miss – are still Under the control of the family; they diversified, expanded, and increasingly evolved with each subsequent generation. Much began after World War II, when a new generation of consumers and the advent of manufacturing technology enabled the expansion of the garment, textile and furniture industry beyond small workshops. Now, as an international brand, they hang needles in a literal and pictorial manner: How do you maintain a handcrafted spirit in the face of giant competitors and mass production waves? How do you maintain a family atmosphere not only between you but with a younger generation of employees who may not be interested in preserving the traditions of their ancestral offices?

The tradition of multi-generational craft companies in Italy may be longer than in other Western industrialized countries, it is not surprising. Because of the unique history of the independent city-states, the culture of handicrafts has flourished in the country, especially in the north – where there has long been a wool, tanning and carpentry factory – for centuries in separate areas. Even the uproar that occurred when Austria and Napoleon annexed large plots of northern Italy in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries failed to destroy the system of the local workshop directed at the family, as the entire clan participated in one activity. For decades, Lake Como became known as silk silk. Vicenza jeweler and jeweler. Brianza, 10 miles north of Milan, became a carpentry center in the 1770s, when Archduke Ferdinand of Austria-Est, who was in control of the region, needed the furniture of Villa Reale, the huge palace he built in Monza, the largest City in the region. . In the twentieth century, businessmen transformed Brianza into a center of modern Italian design by building on the region’s expertise in carpentry and fine paint. Today, the region remains home to dozens of furniture and design homes, including Molteni & C and Poliform – often run by children and the grandchildren of their founders.

Toward the family, the boundaries between blood and community relations are very porous; unlike American companies that have largely abandoned the conceptual city of the company, there is still a sense of eternal responsibility. For example, Brunello Cuchinelli, who started in 1978 a business known as knitwear specializing in cashmere – his daughter Camilla, 37, and Carolina, 29, who worked with him now – made it a family project to revive the medieval village of Solomeo, where he was The company’s headquarters (his wife, Federica, was born and raised there; he grew up in a house without running water just 13 miles away). They built new theaters, and destroyed industrial warehouses in the surrounding valleys to create parks and transform castles into schools to train craftsmen for old handicrafts. So along with fashion designers Alberta Ferretti and his brother Massimo, who founded their company Aeffe, in 1980 in their hometown, Cattolica, in Emilia Romagna, where Alberta still runs her own design studios, she led 10 years of restoration of the vicinity of the village of Montegridolfo.

For these families, the boundaries between blood and community relations are porous. There is still a sense of eternal responsibility.

These lines between personal and professional clans are, as expected, as penetrative as linen dipped in dyes. Two of Gerolamo Etro’s four adult children, known as “Gimmo”, who all worked in the company by their father in 1968, lived in a duplex in Milan where they were raised, split into halves to accommodate them. In a phone call with his daughter Margarita, 37. Angela Missoni, 61 – Her parents, Ottavio and Rosetta, began the creative force behind knitting companies, in 1953 (his brother Vittorio was the CEO until he was killed in a 2013 plane crash) – one can switch between discussion His grandchildren and analysis of plans to expand the brand’s low price lines, M Missoni, where Margherita was appointed as creative director in 2018. At Molteni & C, founded by Angelo and Giuseppina Molteni in 1934, where the third generation said Andrea Molteni, 42, who is president Product development at PT Chest, the company’s kitchen brand, cousins ​​have joined in Company: “When we are together, be our conversation about work.” “It is very natural for us, very comfortable. We grew up that way, that way we all choose to live.”

Nancy Haas is a General Writer for T Magazine. Simon Watson specializes in photography for portraits, interior and travel. Production: Lumen Lab. Poetry: Gianmarco Grazi of Atomo Management. Make-up: Misaki Kato from Atomo Management. Design group: Enrico Pompili and Valentina C Exhibitionesi.

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