Weekly with rebels tattoos and survivors of the earthquake in Myanmar

Weekly with rebels tattoos and survivors of the earthquake in Myanmar

The TimesFRIIY, March 28

An old and beloved friend is close to death in a hospital in Bangkok. Join is a fierce and firm journalist, who is tragicly persecuted in Myanmar. She has always been shrinking how dangerous her cancer; But suddenly there is no escape. She sends her brother, Mark, updates and photographs – GWEN, and GWEN but smiling, and connect to oxygen and drops. The direct motivation is to fly to see it, but it exceeded the entertainment point. Instead, many of her friends record video messages and calculate inevitable sadness in such cases.

In the afternoon, I see a flash on news agencies: a strong earthquake occurred in Myanmar and has also shook Thailand. Fast to the airport on a night flight. I am committed to Bangkok after all.

One of the survivors in the hospital in Naibidao

Main Sai Aung/AFP/Getty Images

Main Sai Aung/AFP/Getty Images

Saturday 29 March

I heard the story later from Mark. How did the employees panic when the shaking started and tried to evacuate the huge hospital; How a Join bed was removed to join the long waiting list of elevators. The oxygen does not seem to flow; I forgot the morphine nurse. Then the evacuation was canceled, and it was circulated to the hospital room and it appears to be bounced again as it was often before. I died on Saturday morning, as my flight was landing at Bangkok Airport. If this is in a short story, it will look unlikely even for imagination.

Sunday 30 March

My mission is to find a way to reach the earthquake center in Myanmar. Years ago, in the shadow of the previous dictatorship, it has been repeatedly infiltrated under the curtain of a tourist. A handful of colleagues, who play the same game, were arrested by the authorities, although the consequences were not dangerous: polite interrogation, elevator to the airport, deportation. Since the last coup in 2021, though, everything has happened to many wings and foreigners who have angered the authorities have spent long periods in prison. How to enter and go out, safely and without discovery? And how to do this without exposing local installations and drivers, without any impossible reports?

Buddhist nuns carry statues that were rescued from the ruins of a building in his view in Mandalay after the earthquake

Main Sai Aung/AFP/Getty Images

Main Sai Aung/AFP/Getty Images

Friday, April 4

I hope I can register here how I succeeded, but to reveal the details you can make people trouble. It looked unlikely, then impossible, then possible – and finally, after a week of the earthquake, I am here in Mandalay. There are a few foreign relief workers who come to the city, but the Caucasus is still 6 feet still stands out. I agree, and I, and Zaw, have a cover story – I am a tourist looking for a friend who was traveling in the area and did not contact her family. Today we spend speaking to firefighters, rescue workers, police and soldiers. Zu (not his real name) does the hadith. I remain in the background, take some pictures, hardly take out my notebook. No one expresses any doubts or ask any questions about me or my fictional friend at all.

People wipe the debris around the Buddha statue in Eina on the outskirts of Mandalay at the weekend

Main Sai Aung/AFP/Getty Images

Sen Bani, an area in Mandalay, which was burned after the earthquake

Kenneth Dnby for the Times time

Saturday, April 5

Seismic maps show that the center of the earthquake was under a vegetable field next to a village called Paye. We are driving there to examine the damage in the heart of the disaster. But regardless of the brick walls that are broken in Buddhist temples, there is nothing almost nothing – the villages state that their wooden homes and Khazran are swinging like trees in a storm, but no one has fallen and no one was hurt.

So I ask them about war. For four years, the armed militias of the Popular Defense Force, or PDF were fighting the Myanmar army in this region. Where are they? The villagers laugh and say they never see them. A man says: “Everything is peaceful in Bay.” “You see.” Then another person mentions a village that was burned, a mile on the road. Others look at him as if a lot said. But he guides us there in any case, to a field of nude concrete foundations and sings firmness.

Then he says, “Do you want to meet PDF?”

They are five minutes drive on the road, a group of young tattoos with AK-47s. Discussing, disturbing, we crossed the invisible confrontation line. The rebels are friendly and they talk freely about the strangely unlimited war. Outside the Junta controlled city, government forces in this area are limited to one base, just three miles away. A young PDF pour the caravans that provide them and get rid of homemade bombs that buried them under the road. “Don't worry”, shaking shaking when he sees our faces. “They only explode when we press this.” It carries a distance control of a game car. The cruel road that we are going through, and the number of countless locals is a minefield.

The members of the Battalion 1 of the Popular Defense Force, a rebel group fighting to topple the military council

Kenneth Dnby for the Times time

Monday April 7

We are driving to Chaung-U, a town 60 miles from Mandalay, to investigate reports that Junta, despite its promise to a ceasefire, continues to attack the PDF areas. Today, my character is a naive tourist with a passion for Buddhism and the desire to visit a famous temple. The worst that can happen, we calculate, is that we will scream and restore. We pass eight military checkpoints before crossing to the rebel country and they are not stopped once.

Sometimes in war, there is an exaggeration in terror and suffering, but here is worse than rumors. We are visiting a monastery that has become a children's school driven by their homes due to the bombings. The monks show terrible pictures of their phones from civilians who were killed and wounded in the recent attacks. We have been transferred to a village that is still beating from the shelling the night before the killing of three civilians. Our companions want to take us to see more terror and destruction, but it remains dark and the driver is keen to leave.

Thon Pan Hla Village in Sagaing. The night before, the country's military council dropped shells on the village, which is under the control of the rebel PDF. In the picture, Miu is more than, whose three cousins ​​died in the attack

Kenneth Dnby for the Times time

Thursday, April 10

I return to Thailand, without anyone noticing it and unnoticed by the authorities. It was a scourge to get to Myanmar hardly the clip. But despite all the cruelty and cruelty, the dictatorship is also impressive and stupid; Last week, he had a lot in his mind. It is a childish pleasure, perhaps, given the tragedy and gift of everything that happened, but it is very comfortable to enter, report the story and go out under the noses of the bastards.

Gwen, who loved Myanmar and her oppression contempt, was burned in a Buddhist temple in Bangkok. I missed the ceremony. I think she would have understood.

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