Fashion takes root in Marseille

Would a luxury brand have walked on a catwalk in Marseille 10 years ago? Chanel, which organized its “cruise” fashion show on the roof of the Cité Radieuse on May 2, would probably not have targeted the city, because it did not have the fashion world that exists today. “For several years, the city has been perceived as a fertile ground for creation,” explains Mlanie Gomis, founder of the ready-to-wear brand Gomis, which also offers a small tailor-made range, entirely made in Marseille, from Italian fabrics. “In 2019, I wanted to settle down and I chose Marseille, because I felt that something was happening, like in Berlin in the 1990s.”

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“There has been a creative buzz since the city was named European Capital of Culture in 2013,” said Alix de Moussac, a Paris-born entrepreneur who moved to Marseille in 2014 to found La Nouvelle, a “comfortable and sexy” lingerie brand. “Jacquemus also contributed to changing the image of Marseille,” believes the entrepreneur. The Provençal designer with a dazzling international career presented his collection “Les Santons de Provence” in 2017 in Marseille, followed by the publication of a book with an evocative title, Marseille I love you. In 2018, Christelle Kocher, designer of the Parisian fashion house Koch, organized a fashion show on the Danielle-Casanova ferry, which connects Marseille to Corsica, Algeria and Tunisia.

Alongside these ephemeral events, sustainable fashion initiatives have flourished, such as the Jogging concept store, inaugurated in 2015, which offers fashion items and beauty products. “We did things with very little,” explains co-founder Olivier Amsellem. “We moved into a butcher shop that we had just renovated, with the desire to promote the layers of the past.”

Mediterranean Fashion House Fund

“Marseille is now fashionable, but it has always been a city of fashion,” explains Maryline Bellieud-Vigouroux, a local entrepreneur who, in 1986, set herself the goal of developing training in fashion and careers. support emerging brands. “There has been a textile tradition here since Colbert made it a free port in 1669,” she says. “It’s a city that has absorbed many waves of immigration, from Armenian embroiderers in the 1920s to Italian tailors fleeing the rise of fascism.”

Bellieud-Vigouroux is the founder of the Maison Mode Méditerranée endowment fund, which has financially supported fashion professionals since 1988; she also laid the first stone of the Museum of Decorative Arts, Faence and Fashion at Château Borly, inaugurated in 2013. And she launched the OpenMyMed fashion festival, which promotes new talents from Marseille. Marseille is also home to numerous fashion and design schools, including Studio Lausi which has been teaching eco-responsible fashion techniques since 2021. Gomis, who teaches at the school, is delighted that “young students are now planning for the city. “

“Marseille offers an alternative to Paris, London and New York, with a more modest, less luxurious vision of fashion. Small series, but attractive pieces,” believes Bellieud-Vigouroux. “In Marseille, we found a gentle way of life which allowed us to develop our project with limited means,” explains De Moussac. “Rents are more affordable than in Paris, and the network is smaller, so connections are made more quickly.” “Being a trader [in the digital age] It's hard, I don't really make a living,” Amsellem said. “But I'm fine with it. With Jogging, I introduce you to a place, a way of life. I'm telling a story, the story of Marseille.”

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Elvira von Bardeleben

Translation of an original article published in French on limonde.fr; the publisher can only be responsible for the French version.

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