When fashion meets self-expression

Fashion designer Zeng Yue blends Eastern and Western influences, emphasizing self-expression, comfort and inclusiveness through her brand, reports Li Xinran.

What is fashion? For many, this may conjure up images of ready-to-wear ensembles or high-end luxury brands, but for Zeng Yue, it's a deeper form of self-expression.

“Fashion is a statement; it's a way of expressing what kind of person I am or what kind of mood I'm currently in,” said the 28-year-old, a graduate of Central Saint Martins College of Art and Designed in the UK.

Zeng's fashion brand, Momonary, debuted at London Fashion Week last month. She attributes the brand's success to its unique blend of Eastern and Western influences. In fact, some have described Momonary's style as “oriental rococo,” drawing parallels with the ornate French art movement of the 18th century.

“We tend to tend towards extreme complexity with bright colors and some characteristics of the Rococo era, and many of our designs and prints derive from traditional Chinese clothing and oriental flowers,” explained Zeng, reflecting on how his experiences studying in China, Japan and the United Kingdom have shaped his design philosophy.

“However, our theme varies each season. For example, our latest fall/winter 2024 collection, 'Mappa Mundi', is inspired by cartography, resulting in an overall color palette that is more subdued and less saturated,” she said. she added.

Zeng founded the brand with his partner, Fu Fanding, in 2019, after graduating. According to her, “momo” is a cute nickname that means “peach” in Japanese while “-nary” carries the implication of “becoming”.

“Peaches can symbolize something mysterious and charismatic, and they can also represent the young and lively image of a girl. These are qualities we want to convey through our products,” she said.

Zeng hopes Momonary's clothes will be easy to wear and comfortable and, more importantly, make people feel good about themselves.

“I hope that when our customers receive clothes from Momonary, they will feel confident and excited to wear them. I hope we can all enjoy the present and the beauty of the world.”

Zeng also emphasized the importance of the materials used. “I'm an active person myself and I'm not a big fan of ironing clothes. That's why we tend to opt for lightweight, easy-care materials,” she explains. “In our latest collection, we officially partnered with 3M Thinsulate, a material we've used extensively in previous seasons. Their cotton retains heat, doesn't warp easily, and can be machine washed.”

Zeng explained that she and her partner are in charge of different aspects of the brand. “My partner is more calm and meticulous, so he takes care of the structural design and production details. As I am more extroverted and expressive, I take care of the pattern design, the image branding and event planning.”

In 2020, Zeng hosted the brand's first pop-up event in his hometown of Chengdu, in southwest China's Sichuan province.

“Pop-up events provide an opportunity for people to learn more directly and visually about the brand and the message we are trying to convey,” Zeng said. “Many people participated, as such events were relatively new at that time and our creations are unique. It took place on a beautiful summer day and everything fell into place perfectly.”

Last year, Zeng also hosted several events in London, with a more workshop focus than previous events. Attendees gathered on a large mat and were presented with fabrics and materials featuring Momonary's signature elements.

“We always encourage our customers to create their own looks with clothing from our brand,” Zeng said. “In our workshops, we really emphasize that DIY aspect, encouraging them to become familiar with our materials. It's really amazing to see what some people have created, from ties to little handbags.”

Zeng oversees the design of the prints and draws inspiration from everyday observations and experiences. “Inspiration doesn't come in a split second; more often than not, it emerges from what I've researched or read recently,” she said.

While Momonary markets itself as women's clothing, Zeng has recently noticed an increase in male customers, who she says wear their Momonary outfits in style.

“I don’t believe in assigning gender to clothing,” Zeng said firmly. “For me, fashion is all about self-expression. There used to be rigid labels attached to clothing, but recent years have seen a shift towards breaking down these barriers. As long as our customers feel free to wear our clothes and express ourselves, that’s all that matters.”

Zeng attributes his open-mindedness towards fashion to his hometown. “In Chengdu, it's easy to be yourself. You can dress however you want, and people won't judge you, they might just be a little curious about your outfit.”

As Momonary approaches its fifth anniversary later this year, Zeng reflects on what has been the driving force throughout its journey. She credits her passion for fashion design and the feeling of accomplishment that comes from completing each project as her greatest motivators. She nevertheless remains pragmatic about the business side of the industry.

“For me, fashion design is much more than creativity, it’s also about understanding that fashion is a business,” she explained. “While this is an area where you can express yourself, it still takes hard work and dedication to turn your dreams into reality.”

Regarding Momonary's participation in London Fashion Week, Zeng sees it as a mutual selection process. “When we were students, we idolized the Big Four fashion weeks. However, with more experience, we realized that these events are just platforms. What really matters are the clothes we made .” she says. “We chose to apply to London Fashion Week because it embraces edginess and celebrates creativity, which resonates perfectly with the essence of Momonary.”

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